Checked out of the campsite and the price hasn't changed one cent since last year. Still a complete bargain at €19 for this part of the world.
If you need a campsite around Lake Como then Camping Solarium in Domaso definitely gets a thumbs up from us.
Followed the edge of the lake south to the town of Como. There's quite a few tunnels on the northern stretch and not those nice James Bond car chase open tunnels like Garda. Still, if you're not in a hurry then give it a shot. We tucked in behind a 911 Carerra on German plates. He was doing exactly the same as every bike does in these situations. Entering a tunnel, dropping it down a couple of gears and winding it on. His mrs would then give him a dead arm at which point he'd change up again!
Como is full of hot Italian chicks on mopeds. They zip around in tiny summer dresses looking stunning. Italy is also the only place in the world where blokes can look cool riding mopeds. And a bloke can ride pillion on another blokes moped and they somehow both look cool. Not queer. Go figure.
Went through Bellagio where we enjoyed more sightseeing. It was jam packed with stunners. Sam said there was some mountains and a lake too. Or something like that.
Pulled into a little restaurant on the lakeside near Onno, gagging for a coffee. Just as we did a stream of cop bikes rode past announcing over the tannoy that the road was about to close. I was about to complain under my breath but then the waitress translated the announcement for us. There's a female bike race circling the lake today.
We sat down, put our feet up with a coffee and enjoyed a huge procession of lycra clad honeys hoofing past. Hour or so later, 3 cappuccinos and a double espresso came to a fiver.
Headed south to Bergamo. We originally planned to take a scenic route east between Lecco and Riva del Garda but it was getting late and satnav said it would take 5 hours. We noticed it last year on the map marked with a green border but didn't get round to riding it. There is also a short section marked by Mr Michelin as 'difficult or dangerous'. Memories of nearly getting cleaned up on such a road last year came back so we gave it a wide berth.
Stopped at Bergamo absolutely desperate for food. Struggled to find anywhere between Lecco and Bergamo but there was a huge supermarket just outside Bergamo. Sam popped in for provisions while I planned our next move.
A chap came over for a chat as I stood with the bike. He was Italian, living in India but on holiday at the moment visiting friends and family. He gave me some great pointers.
He said the best way from Bergamo to Lake Garda is up over Passo del Tonale. Take the S42 all the way from Bergamo over the pass and on to Lago di Sta Giustina. On the way he said Lago d'Iseo is lovely and there's natural hot springs at Darfo and Boario Terme where you can get cheap rooms if you want to stay over. The springs are a constant 37 degrees. Why the fudge you'd want to sit in a steaming hot spring over here in summer is beyond me but it's always great to pick up local knowledge. You'd have to be mad.
Onwards to Lake Garda take the S43 south then the S12, careful to avoid the motorway that runs parallel, then finally the S45b down to Riva.
We then chatted about the Isle of Man for a while. He rode over Europe on his Speed Triple four years ago for the TT with some mates. He'd love to go again but it's just too far for one week of racing. He is about to do a mammoth trip across India on Royal Enfields though.
He told me about a couple of his mates in the Dolomites after I said I'm hoping to head that way. One, a chap called Mackenzie, runs a pizza restaurant in San Vito di Cadore. Best pizza in the Dolomites apparently. Not that he's biased I'm sure. Told me to drop in. Mackenzie lives for bikes and is a huge Ducati fan.
As he walked off I thought it's a good job Catherine wasn't with me otherwise it could of been embarrassing. Young stocky Italian bloke with shaved head, Ramones t-shirt and a huge passion for bikes and travel. It would of been Andermatt all over again. He then climbed on his scooter with his little shopping bag and rode off with a huge ciao. Obviously looking cool.
We just didn't have time to take his route over the mountains. Need to be in Verona on Saturday and we both really fancy a day off tomorrow and a couple of nights around Garda.
We took the motorway towards Lake Garda. Bit dull but not a massive stretch and we made great time. Only cost 3 quid.
Pulled off and headed north around the western edge of the lake. It's lovely. Lots of pretty towns and massive old villas. Lots of lemon trees lining the road too. Strangely enough there's quite a few in Limone.
Recognised the James Bond car chase tunnels too. I was very excited blasting through those. Sam didn't share my enthusiasm. Or join in singing the James Bond theme tune with me while we roared through them.
Checked into the usual campsite (Alpino in Malcesine) and Sam sorted out the tent while I shot back into Torbole to catch the shops before they closed at 8.30. There's a small but well stocked shop at the campsite but they don't sell fresh meat and tonight is BBQ night in the Lea tent.
Picked up briquettes, bangers, kebabs and cold beers. I remembered everything except damn lighter blocks. No worries. Sam improvised using dry twigs and petrol. And some scented tea lights that we found in the campsite shop.
Proper little Ray Mears she was. Although she's missing some eyebrows after getting a bit carried away with the petrol.
It took a while to remember how to put that travel BBQ together but once built it was mint. Big basket of white hot briquettes underneath and we were sorted.
Beer, BBQ and a lovely warm clear lake. What more could you ask for?
I really can't bring myself to tell Catherine. When I spoke to her from Como last night, while she was still working at 10pm, she put on her sad voice and was genuinely distraught that we were taking in all of Italy without her. I could picture her big sad puppy dog eyes. It was heart wrenching.
Anyway the ignorant sod never answered her phone when i rang to gloat so I left her a voicemail. Thought I best just pop it in the blog in case she ignores the message! Ha ha, Italy misses you sis x
188 miles
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