A Dutch chap walked over to offer me a free table but I really don't think the poor bike could take it! They were leaving too and just wanted it to go to a good home.
Set off and rode north (Catherine, that means UP) along the west (LEFT) bank of the Rhine up to Koblenz. I think it's the B9. It's OK but not as fast or pretty as the Mosel. In Koblenz I picked up the B49 west along the Mosel. We did this last year and it's every bit as good as I remember it. Beats the Rhine hands down. After Cochem is where it gets proper interesting. Careful with the road numbers though otherwise you'll get diverted onto the main roads - it's the 49 and 53. Just stick to the river and you'll be fine.
There is a freight train line running along the northern side of the lake but it eventually peels off north. I passed plenty of nice looking quiet campsites.
Lots of wine cellars and wine tasting on offer. Some free, some chargeable. I imagine the chargeable ones are unbiased whereas the free ones only offer wines from their own vinyard. Could be wrong though and I didn't stick around to test the theory.
At Wasserbillig, just over the border into Luxembourg, I took the N10 north to Diekirch. Fuel is cheap in Luxembourg, so watch out for diesel spills from people overfilling. There was a massive trail of it along my path on the (wet) N10 so extra care required. It's a good road but it's spoiled, from a biking point of view, by the large number of towns and 50km limits. I got the impression they're big against speeding here. Every 50km limit had big flashing speed signs. Didn't see any coppers or speed traps though. I always try to stick to marked limits in build up areas anyway.
The N15 between Ettelbruck and Bastogne was next and is a far nicer road. Again, it was wet but starting to dry. There were some nice sweeping sections where you could have some proper fun. I passed a Belgian car that had lost it in the wet on one corner but everyone appeared fine. Fairly low speed I think. It really wasn't a good place to stop and offer assistance so I moved on.
Over the border into Belgium, the N4 is a fast A road. A good alternative to motorways. It's marked up in green on the Michelin map, but I don't think Michelin are consistent with their gradings. You wouldn't take a detour for the scenery, but it certainly beats the M1.
I came off the N4 onto the N97 west. Picked up a really short section of motorway and headed for Dinant. I wanted to be in France for my last night of camping and last day of riding. Noticed a great looking section on the map that would take me south over the border. All green and twisty and it looked like it could be worth exploring.
The route ran south of Dinant to Givet, then Fumay, then the D1 from Revin through Montherme to Charleville-Mezieres. Not the most direct route but pick up a Michelin map and it jumps out at you. Don't expect satnav to pick up the pretty route either, use a map!
As I rode along the motorway south of Dinant, the view of a gorge just suddenly opened up. It was breathtaking. I was on a bridge over the gorge and realised I'd missed a trick by not turning down into Dinant. From Dinant you can follow the Meuse river south along the valley all the way to Charleville-Mezieres. I took the next exit for Hastiere but you should do as I say and not as I do. Take the road down into Dinant and take the road hugging the river all the way south. I picked up this road after a couple of miles and it's amazing. Even better, stick on the N4 for a little longer into Namur and try the N92 south to Dinant. Next time I'm in the area I'm gonna give that a shot.
In Bogny-sur-Meuse there is a fantastic metalwork sculpture of Gene Simmons, complete with guitar, facing out over the river. No idea what the connection there is but impressive all the same. I'm sure that I also saw a municipal campsite in the town which might be useful for future reference.
Pulled into Charleville-Mezieres about 8.30pm. Found a great campsite. Thankfully it was in satnav. If it wasn't then I probably wouldn't have found it. There was one small sign for it but by the time you'd found the sign you were almost there anyway. Bit of a detour required through town because of road closures for a pushbike race. Thought it would be expensive. The reception area and offices were really plush. Turned out to be a municipal, even though it didn't say so. Got allocated a huge pitch and got change from €8. Welcome back to France!
My neighbour was an English chap called John. Lives in France though and trying out a campervan for the first time. He's really into his bikes but not had one for a while because his wife thinks they're dangerous so he eventually gave them up. They've been here all week so filled me in on the useful local info.
I'd had a great day of riding. Put in plenty of hours and racked up plenty of miles today. I'd like to investigate the twisties further up towards Spa in Belgium but that will have to wait for another time. I'm pretty chuffed that I've got another nice route highlighted on the map.
324 miles
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