We also passed a chap on a pushrod in full lycra. Catherine was delighted to report that he wasn't wearing any pants.
Obligatory coffee in Bormio then up the Stelvio Pass for an obligatory bratwurst. Very touristy but it's gotta be done.
Looped back onto the S41 into Switzerland. Up to Zernez, down to St Moritz then up the Julierpass. The south side was good but the north side was being resurfaced so some parts were a little bit tricky.
From Thusis we picked up the E13 south. It's an amazing little road that winds up and down around the motorway. They both follow a similar path down a huge rocky gorge but the E13 hugs the rockface rather than straight-lining it.
The gorge has dams, waterfalls, mountain rivers and rock pools. All quite pretty.
Go really careful though. There's a few points where they try to force you onto the motorway and you've got to stay really sharp to follow the E road. Even with satnav there were a few moments. Just before the town of Splugen the road goes singletrack and then onto cobbles. Without satnav we'd probably have turned around assuming we'd taken a wrong turn.
We subsequently found out from Mikey that the Swiss are clamping down on motorway abuse and there's cameras in the tunnels and choke points by the exits. The fine for using motorways without a vignette is now 3 or 4 hundred Euros. It used to be 100.
The Splugen Pass over from Switzerland into Italy is really tight, especially at the Italian side. The hairpins are narrow and there's sections where they're in close succession. We hit it at a quiet time but buses do use this road which must make for some interesting situations. The only other traffic to note was two Austrian lads on KTM supermotos who were attacking each corner with proper foot out action. Very entertaining.
From Chiavenna we rode south to our little campsite on Lake Como. Vicky and co were still there and delighted to see us again. Rode straight over to say hi then once Catherine and Vicky had put each other down, Catherine went to reception to check us in. The chap needed the bike reg and obviously Catherine didn't know it so he came out to take it. He started having a bit of a go because we hadn't stopped at the stop sign in front of reception. They took a wander across the campsite to find the bike. As soon as he saw it was me again, his mood completely changed and he came over to shake my hand and welcome me back. Gave us a huge spot near Vickys place.
We sat with Vicky and co drinking beer all night. Popped out to get some takeout pizzas from the restaurant over the road. The Italian lass in the pizza place only spoke Italian but the menu was in German which was quite amusing. Catherine read from the menu in perfect German and the lass didn't have a clue what she wanted. Pointing a finger at the menu saved the day.
I also had an amusing run in with the old dear on the campsite. It's a family business. Nice German chap plus his wife and her parents. He's the happy one of the bunch. His mother in law was locking up the showers for the night. Asked me something in German which I didn't understand. Told her I was English. She then repeated the question slowly and loudly, in German. Thought it was just us Brits who resorted to those tactics!
Thunder and lightning over night but clear in the morning. Catherine woke me up to ask for the bike key so she could open the panniers. I asked if she fancied a walk down to the shops and she replied that she'd already been! Up with the milk and she got to the shop before it even opened. Came back with breakfast provisions and got the stove on for a brew. Unbelievable I know but she says if I don't put it in the blog then she's gonna write it up herself!
230 miles
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