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Friday 21 August 2015

Day 6 - The Black Forest to Haguenau

What a glorious morning - we finally have sunshine! There was mist on the lake and in the trees first thing this morning. It was beautiful, but thankfully it was also lifting as the sun broke through. The washing and the tent would finally dry and we'd catch some rays.

I rode out to the bakery for croissants, milking it as a selfless task but secretly the short ride on these roads is a completely selfish wake up call. I left Louby sprawled out in the sun. When I returned, I think she may have turned over but otherwise there was very little movement. And who can blame the girl? She deserves a little rest.

Breakfast, yoga in the sun, steaming hot showers, sunbathe, more tea, settle up (€25), black forest highroad. Today is going to be a good day! We actually considered staying another night but the forecast suggested rain in the afternoon and a maximum of 17 degrees. It lied. We soaked up the sun until 12:30 and then left in perfect conditions and 25 degree heat.

I've said all that needs saying about the B500 in previous tours, so I won't bore you. But it's amazing. The bike tyres are finally getting a chance to peel and bobble around the edges.

We stopped at Mummelsee for a final fill of black forest fayre. Currywurst and BFG. And a cheeky beer for Loobs.

We rode towards Baden Baden to enjoy the last little bit of the B500 then did a U-turn and headed over to Bhul to catch the Rheinmunster ferry over the border into France.

A quick break to unfold the map and have a wee (I'm not paying the woman with the dish at Mummelsee when there's hedges and trees everywhere).

Haguenau is the first town over the border. It looks far enough away from the Rheine to avoid mosquitos but close enough to be camping by 6pm. A municipal popped up on satnat so we decided to poke our noses in. It was in the right direction for home so if it looked ropey then we could keep moving and lose very little time.

It was just right. Probably slightly too far to walk into town but it's a quiet little site with huge pitches, soft ground and a lovely dog (of unknown origin) called Cherie. We had free choice of pitches so we picked one that would give us some evening sun on our backs, some morning sun on our faces and a couple of trees closer enough together to take a hammock.

I rode to Leclerc for provisions (a 3 minute ride, unless you take a wrong turn and accidentally join the autoroute, which I very nearly did) while Louby made camp.

Merguez sausages for tea with fresh gnocchi and pesto and, finally, some fresh salad. The sausages were disappointing for merguez but fine otherwise. Everything else was lovely. Including the €2 euro bottle of wine we picked up in the black forest, although we'd already downed the decent (€4.50) bottle before opening it so our senses may have been numbed slightly.

I like it here. The contrast to the campsite at Maggiore is huge. At €7.50 it's a steal. But it's also peaceful and friendly. And any site that's hammock friendly is an instant win.

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