Day 9 - Home

tbc...

Day 8 - Thionville to Zebrugge

tbc...

We're so camp!

And we have a certificate to prove it.

Day 7 - Haguenau to Thionville

The German girl in the next pitch (actually, there's one empty place between us and the pitches are so big you'd have to shout to make conversion) started the ball rolling with some stretches this morning. I thought I'd show her how it's done but she then progressed onto some handstands and other ninja acrobatics so I felt a bit self conscious pulling out my yoga mat. I still did a mighty fine swan though and Louby's dirty dog, as always, was a magnificent distraction.

I took a short ride to the artisan bakery for croissants then enjoyed a steaming hot shower while Louby made the most of the sun and the hammock.

We bid farewell to the friendly chap who runs the place and, after a short ride around Haguenau to get a feel for the place (looks nice, further investigation needed on foot, Friday appears to be market day), we hit the open road.

We needed to head west. According to my failing memory and the Michelin maps, there's nothing of any real interest until we're half way to Sarre-Union. So we avoided the narrow roads and stuck to the fast stuff before peeling off onto forest roads. We explored some unknown territory and found some real gems. Imagine riding Dalby forest drive at silly speeds with no other traffic and you'll get the idea. Some towns were begging for a repeat visit. We had a fine choice of busy little restaurants in Petite-Pierre, but our appetites weren't quite ready for a menu de jour.

We stumbled across a beautiful municipal campsite at Hinsbourg. So beautiful that we turned around and called in to pick up some information. Despite the sign saying otherwise, the reception cabin wasn't open but we marked it on the map for future reference. The site is in the middle of the forest, elevated with perfect views all around. It was quiet so the few tents that were pitched had stacks of space. It looked like a perfect haven.

We're rode into Sarre-Union and parked up by the goat fountain (no, we couldn't work out the significance either). There's a bar next to the fountain with a terrace where we enjoyed a short breather and a drink. Thionville is about 90 minutes away if we avoided motorway but we decided to take the fast route, arrive early and enjoy some afternoon sun. According to satnav, two sections of peage (€4.20) should have saved us 25 minutes, but a broken toll both easily lost us half of that.

But we arrived at 3.45pm (a new record I do believe) to a warm welcome, clear blue skies and 30 degree sunshine.

We pitched, we showered and then we walked through the park into town. We grabbed a quick beer in the square before hunting out somewhere to eat, which was no easy task. Kebab is the food of choice around here and if you fancy it, there's plenty of fast food places to satisfy your needs. We fancied something more civilised. After much walking we stumbled into a courtyard containing several options. They all offered a similar choice of steak or pizza or salad or burger. We went for the latter two options and they were fine. It felt like a huge effort to find some relatively simple food, but we left feeling content and retired back to base for one final night under canvas.

Diva quote of the day

"Encase me. Mmm, all I need now is my book and my glasses"

Day 6 - The Black Forest to Haguenau

What a glorious morning - we finally have sunshine! There was mist on the lake and in the trees first thing this morning. It was beautiful, but thankfully it was also lifting as the sun broke through. The washing and the tent would finally dry and we'd catch some rays.

I rode out to the bakery for croissants, milking it as a selfless task but secretly the short ride on these roads is a completely selfish wake up call. I left Louby sprawled out in the sun. When I returned, I think she may have turned over but otherwise there was very little movement. And who can blame the girl? She deserves a little rest.

Breakfast, yoga in the sun, steaming hot showers, sunbathe, more tea, settle up (€25), black forest highroad. Today is going to be a good day! We actually considered staying another night but the forecast suggested rain in the afternoon and a maximum of 17 degrees. It lied. We soaked up the sun until 12:30 and then left in perfect conditions and 25 degree heat.

I've said all that needs saying about the B500 in previous tours, so I won't bore you. But it's amazing. The bike tyres are finally getting a chance to peel and bobble around the edges.

We stopped at Mummelsee for a final fill of black forest fayre. Currywurst and BFG. And a cheeky beer for Loobs.

We rode towards Baden Baden to enjoy the last little bit of the B500 then did a U-turn and headed over to Bhul to catch the Rheinmunster ferry over the border into France.

A quick break to unfold the map and have a wee (I'm not paying the woman with the dish at Mummelsee when there's hedges and trees everywhere).

Haguenau is the first town over the border. It looks far enough away from the Rheine to avoid mosquitos but close enough to be camping by 6pm. A municipal popped up on satnat so we decided to poke our noses in. It was in the right direction for home so if it looked ropey then we could keep moving and lose very little time.

It was just right. Probably slightly too far to walk into town but it's a quiet little site with huge pitches, soft ground and a lovely dog (of unknown origin) called Cherie. We had free choice of pitches so we picked one that would give us some evening sun on our backs, some morning sun on our faces and a couple of trees closer enough together to take a hammock.

I rode to Leclerc for provisions (a 3 minute ride, unless you take a wrong turn and accidentally join the autoroute, which I very nearly did) while Louby made camp.

Merguez sausages for tea with fresh gnocchi and pesto and, finally, some fresh salad. The sausages were disappointing for merguez but fine otherwise. Everything else was lovely. Including the €2 euro bottle of wine we picked up in the black forest, although we'd already downed the decent (€4.50) bottle before opening it so our senses may have been numbed slightly.

I like it here. The contrast to the campsite at Maggiore is huge. At €7.50 it's a steal. But it's also peaceful and friendly. And any site that's hammock friendly is an instant win.

Day 5 - Lake Maggiore to The Black Forest

Last night's storm has cleared. We woke up to the sound of tent pegs hammering as neighbours made repairs.

There's water where there shouldn't be water. Even the panniers, sealed and locked but left on the bike overnight, had water inside them.

We skipped the morning showers, settled up (€35 per night!) and hit the road before it returned. It feels too early to do this but we need to start heading north. So we had an uneventful, cold but mainly dry, ride north through Switzerland. The run up the St Gotthardpass was fantastic. We came down the other side in freezing mist and fog. Andermatt looked typically grey, cold and wet. Switzerland was at it's most unwelcoming and it's still doing nothing to win Louby over.

We stopped in Brunnen, at a cafe on the waterfront, for a hot drink and a slice of cake. I had some Swiss francs that I was hoping to burn but it was so damn expensive I ended up breaking a 50f note and accumulating even more shrapnel.

We aimed for Waldshut, left Switzerland behind and gratefully crossed the border into Germany.

I'm done with Switzerland. The ride was long and monotonous. There were a few memorable moments, but not enough to justify the dullness of the remainder. I vowed to never venture over the Swiss border without a vignette again. 40f is crazy money for a short pass through, but the alternative tedium just isn't worth it.

I hit Germany full of excitement. The B500 Black Forest Highroad should have been the perfect antidote to a day of Swiss B roads. Unfortunately, and frustratingly, it was being resurfaced. In fact it was being resurfaced from Waldshut right up to the bit where I usually turn round to ride down again. The best bit. Don't get me wrong, they're doing a proper job and it will no doubt be beautifully fast and smooth when they're done, but why now?!?

They're was was still fun to be had after the roadworks though. With hot tyres and some serious unwinding to do, we caned it north to Lake Titisee. A brief stop at Lidl for provisions and then we were camping by 6pm. I was craving a beer and a pretzel, which we found at Lidl. The beer was cold and the pretzel still warm. Perfect.

It was cold but reasonably clear by the lake. Louby defrosted in a hot shower while I pulled out the wet tent.

We opened a bottle of red and drank by the lake before hitting the onsite restaurant. Louby really fancied steak and chips, but there was no steak left. I always arrive in Germany full of cravings. Usually beer and pretzel and spetzl and currywurst and black forest gateaux. Tonight I would satisfy three of the five. Tomorrow I hope for currywurst and BFG.

Day 4 - Lake Maggiore

No riding today - we can't take it! But it was never the plan to move on. We're here for two nights and we damn well earned it.

Yoga has never been so well needed or received as this mornings session. I needed some back bends over the panniers to try and unclunk the aches following yesterday's epic ride.

After some excellent showers we walked into town. Cannobio is a truly stunning place. Beautifully proportioned and maintained. Lots of cobbled little streets and pokey alleys. Every house is a gem. It was definitely the right choice to come back here after nothing more than a flying visit last year.

We explored for a while and then stopped for food. There's plenty of choice, although the menus are fairly similar. Italian, funnily enough. It's very reasonable too, given the prime location overlooking the lake. We split a salad and then had some delicious pasta. All washed down with half a litre of cold rose. And then another half once the first disappeared, which was fairly quickly. I think it came to about 25 quid, all in.

We headed back to the campsite for a well earned nap on the beach, stopping on the way for ice cream. One black cherry and one raspberry cheesecake. The black cherry definitely nailed it.

Our campsite shares a breach front with the nicer looking campsite and villa next door. The beach is pebbles rather than sand. I really need to pick up some flip flops. I never replaced the well worn pair that Louby made me bin after they contaminated the luggage for the entire two weeks of our last tour.

We walked back into town for an evening meal. We wanted to find somewhere different to eat but the place we chose earlier was by far the busiest and the food was faultless. So we returned, choosing a different table to fool the waiters so they wouldn't recognise us.

I had a simple gnocchi with pesto and it was delicious. Louby had half a salad - the other half she threw down her frock when she caught the spoon with her arm. Her clumsy mumsy frock is living up to it's name but unfortunately it may be ruined, which would be a black armband day. It's a favourite but chilli oil makes a serious stain.

The rain came while we were eating. A biblical storm. The kind of rain that makes the waiters stop waiting so they can stand and watch it. The kind of rain that people get their phone out to film. It was spectacular, but we also knew we had to walk back through it to the campsite and sleep in a tent tonight.

We waited for a break and then moved. Unsurprisingly, the basha was down. We started to assess the damage but had to retreat inside the tent when the storm returned. Despite having some tree cover, it was relentless. They're was a stream of water under the tent. Everything was wet. We tried to save what we could but the porch wasn't offering any real shelter. The rain was hammering down, bouncing up under the tent and gushing beneath it. We retreated inside, zipped up the tent and we'll assess the damage in the morning.

Day 3 - Besancon to Lake Maggiore

I decided to humour myself over breakfast and punched Lake Maggiore into the sat nav. A rather optimistic 4.5 hours was the response which, like giddy little fools, we believed.

So after a failed expedition to the bakery (closed for the week), a further walk to Carrefour and Lidl (too early for both), and a well needed stretch on the yoga mats, we hit the road.

Of course we ignored sat navs instructions and chose to ride south to Gex (amazing roads, but absolutely no restaurants open to satisfy our lunchtime cravings) then over to Geneva where we parked up by the lake and tucked into some bread and cheese that we'd picked up earlier in the day (in case of such an emergency). Geneva was bustling, with lots of people enjoying the outdoor space. The weather was scorching. We were the only idiots sat by the lake in leathers.

We picked up the top of the route des grand alps at thonon les bains and had a hot, dry, fast ride south to cluses.

East to Chamonix on the amazing elevated autoroute then over into Switzerland. It was starting to get worryingly late by the time we reached martigny but we made a unanimous decision to get out of Switzerland and push on to Lake Maggiore. One days pain would earn us a day off tomorrow.

So east to Brig then over the simplon pass where we were delayed further by road works in the open tunnels and several days of very cautious traffic lights.

Riding down the simplon pass into Italy we were treated to a spectacular lightning storm. Unfortunately we were riding straight into it, but it had long passed by the time we hit the lake.

We followed the western bank of the lake north to cannobio where we pulled up at a campsite we noticed last year right on the shore.

Reception was closed but the chap was just getting in his car to leave site so he let us through the barrier, walked us round to a porch and told us to settle up in the morning.

On first impressions, the site seems fairly unimpressive but it's always tricky to find your bearings when you turn up in darkness. It's certainly busy, mainly with Germans. We pitched between two parties of young German lads. It was noisy at first, especially as we're by the road, but it settled down later. Their music is unforgivable though. Not loud, just bloody awful.

The restaurant was closed, unsurprisingly, but we walked over the road and enjoyed yet more pizza and some very cheap and reasonable wine.

Louby's heated vest ('Shall I bring it? Why will I need a heated vest in France in August?') has been on pretty much all day. Her decision to leave the heated gloves at home was a poor one which she's regretting and she definitely won't be making the same mistake again.

Sat nav is going back to school. The 4.5 hour ride it promised us ended up taking 11.5 painful hours, although we did have several stops. By the time we landed at 10pm we were completely spent. It also made some pretty dubious routing choices when trying to avoid autoroute in Switzerland but it did keep us off the expensive stuff for our short venture over the border. It's living on borrowed time though and better not give us any more nonsense.

Day 2 - Zebrugge to Besancon

Got chatting to a couple of chaps from Barnsley last night and again this morning. Andrew and Simon. They are heading down to Interlaken today, which seems a bit too keen to us, but they reckon they'll be there by night fall. 550 miles all in. They're on the same return crossing as us next weekend so we'll no doubt be swapping tales. Simon recommended peeling off the autoroute and heading for Thann near Mulhouse on the French side of the Rhine near the bottom of the Black Forest. It's a bit of a playground for bikes and ideal if we want to stay in France. Looking at the map, I've explored the area before but we'll keep an eye on the weather and bear it in mind.

We're still none the wiser where to head. Weather looks fine everywhere so we're somewhat blessed, but it doesn't help narrow down our choices.

We decided to ride down to Luxembourg before making a decision, which is where we could take a quick fuel stop and toilet break. Louby fancied a cuppa but the queues and the complete chaos of it all put her off. We settled for some contraband sandwiches that we made up at breakfast and smuggled off the ferry plus a slice of rather delicious looking, but very disappointing, custard pastry.

We pushed on and aimed for Besancon. I've been through several times but never given the place any time. It would also drop us into the right area of France to go exploring.

Camp sites were limited. In fact they're was one, about 5km out of the town centre. It was a bit tired and run down, with an abandoned crazy golf course and an outdoor pool that was mysteriously shut down in the middle of August. But the pitches were a good size, although the grass could do with a cut. It was fine for a one night stop over but in future we'll stick to the municipal at Quingey.

We rode into town for an evening wander and hoped to find a bite to eat. We failed. It's a pretty enough place but slightly desolate on a Sunday night. The few restaurants we found were pizza restaurants and there is a pizza place back at the campsite, where I could also have a proper drink. So that's exactly what we did.

Tomorrow we'll move on, feeling like we either exhausted Besancon or never really discovered it's heart.

2015 whistle stop tour

One brief week to kill. Izzy catered for and being treated to a week at Centre Parcs.  House completion looking unlikely (but then we find out it will happen while we're away). What to do?

Well, we're currently on a (stupidity expensive) ferry, drinking fizz, admiring Hull in all its splendour, wondering where to head tomorrow. A week bimbling around France was the intention but, despite the distance and limited time available, Lake Maggiore sounds more appealing the more we drink.


29 miles