They'd swung by the Lochnagar Crater from the Somme which I'd like to see. It's been on the tick list for a while. I suggested they visit Fort Driant if they're going to Metz. Can't vouch for it personally but it's another one on the tick list.
They said there's a really nice municipal camp site slap bang in the centre of Metz, which is useful to know given that Metz is an easy days run back to Zebrugge.
They'd ridden through the Black Forest on Sunday. Said it was full of bikes and police speed traps. We rode it today and there was neither.
Headed north to Baden-Baden to pick up the B500 Schwarzwaldhochstrasse to Freudenstadt. It's truly awesome. Despite the weather forecasters conspiring against us, the sun was blazing and the temp around 28 degrees. Spoke to a German chap on a drop dead gorgeous custom built bike who said the weather's been like this for a week or two and it's gonna continue.
Stopped in Titisee for currywurst and chips. Convinced Catherine she was going mental because she just couldn't remember stopping at the same restaurant last time for Black Forest gateaux. Turns out it was Sam, not Catherine, who came here last time. Sorry sis. Anyway, the currywurst was pure filth and superb. White veal sausage with lashings of curry sauce and salty chips. I had a top notch espresso (which defo goes down as one of my top five ever) and Catherine had a weißbier.
Full of food, and with Catherine topped up on ale, we continued south and on to Todtnau.
Todtnau, as I understand it, lays claim to the record for having the longest dry tobogan run in Germany - the Hasenhorn Coaster.
We parked up at its base and took the ski lift ride to the top. The ride to the top takes ages - this thing is massive.
Bit of a carry on at the top while a family argued with the operator over taking their toddler down. Minimum age for riders is 4 but, despite them arguing otherwise, this kid was obviously just a nipper. The dad told the attendant to take his kid back down while he enjoyed the ride, which again had a frosty reception.
We stood in the queue bantering with a couple of young kids from Berlin. They obviously enjoyed stretching their English and were cool.
Eventually we got to front of queue. I convinced the attendant I was a pro and negotiated a huge gap between me and the kids in front. I flew down, with Catherine hot on my tail on the next sled. Not sure how safe they are. They're basically just plastic tea trays on rails. Big smiles all round though. Catherine picked up a souvenir snap then we moved on.
Next stop was Todtmoos just down the road. Cafe Zimmermann is apparently well renowned for serving the best gateau in the Black Forest. Dismiss all 80's memories of poor Sara Lee interpretations - this was the real deal and truly delicious. I understand the owner is a well decorated chef who runs masterclasses on making the perfect BFG. Catherine had one of those ice creams with a shot of espresso. She said it was delicious. I didn't get a taste, despite the fact half my gateau disappeared her way.
The waiter was a pleasant young chap with excellent English. When he told me he was from Cork in Ireland I realised why.
Rode east out of Todtmoos on some fantastic little roads to eventually pick up the autobahn out of Germany past Basel and into France.
At one point we got snapped by a speed trap. Catherine has categorized all speed cameras into two types - those that bikers can just wave at and those we need to watch out for. Thankfully this was a forward facing one so no bother.
Stuck on péage (about a tenners worth) through France to Besançon then took the N83 down to Doucier. The roads from Besançon are great and made a nice break from the monotony of motorways. Nearer doucier the road skirts around mountains and there's some very impressive landscape and some fine road engineering. We camped up at eastern end of Lake Chalain where Steve greeted us with some very well received cold beers.
We got the tents up by torch light then over to Steve and Michelles holiday bungalow for food and drink.
I think we're gonna stay put for a couple of nights and enjoy some serious chilling.
323 miles
No comments:
Post a Comment