Route Napoléon

What better way to spend a blazing hot Saturday morning than ripping up the Route Napoléon?

It's the route wee Bonny carved to race north on his motorbike when he realised he'd left the oven on back home in Grenoble while he was enjoying an ice cream down on the south coast. Or something like that.

Yep, every day's a school day on this blog!

Day 5 - Doucier to Laffrey (south of Grenoble)

After a lifetime of missing out, I finally popped my fondue cherry last night. We all met up in the bar for a swift al fresco pint before heading out to the local restaurant.

The Tigers had eaten here quite a bit and the fondue was well tried and tested. Despite Michelles talk of cheese hangovers and Steves morbid health warnings, they couldn't sway us or themselves from the idea. Fondue got a unanimous vote all round.

Very nice it was too. It's not just melted cheese and bread. They mix wine with the cheese, and give you a plate of filthy processed meats too. You couldn't live on it every day, at least not for very long, but I'll defo have it again. Catherine really enjoyed it too. Possibly a bit too much, but she's on a serious cheese binge after weeks of avoiding all dairy products on her faddy eater plan.

We all went our separate ways the next morning. Steve, Michelle and Zach had a ferry home to catch while we were heading south.

Guys, thanks again for everything. We gatecrashed your family jollies with empty hands and sparse panniers but left well fed and watered.

While there were ferry duties to the north, there were great riding roads to the south.

We worked out a route down south that, with the exception of a couple of unavoidable towns, stuck completely to the scenic twisties. At the end of the day, I'm struggling to think of a single bad road today. There was a nice mixture of fast twisties, some lovely towns and some tighter technical stuff. We rode through forests, tunnels and canyons. The weather was sticking around 36 degrees.

The bike is a completely different beast this year too. Gareth at Reactive Suspension near York recently changed the rear shock spring. I reckon he got it spot on. The bike always suffered when it was fully loaded. It used to wallow about and bottom out, which was neither pleasant nor particularly safe. Now it behaves so much better, especially in corners and on uneven roads. You can now throw it into a corner with absolute confidence.

While it was in bits, Marty at SmartRRRs fitted gel inserts to my seat. That's defo the second best investment I've ever made in the bike.

Roadworks are popping up everywhere, but we saw the same in Germany and Luxembourg.

One pass, Col de Porte, had patchy gravel on the way up but you were rewarded with lovely tarmac down the other side to compensate. The D520b was a superb stretch of road.

The temporary traffic signals are kinda cool. They have countdown timers under the green light so you know when they're due to turn green. There were two sets of lights, some distance apart, between roadworks on one particular road. We're convinced they were phased so if you stuck to the speed limit you would sail through the second set without waiting. We had a bit of a wait but the locals driving behind cruised up just as the lights were changing.

In my two year absense, I forgot just how courteous other road users are to bikes over here. Cars will part like the red sea and throw themselves into ditches to let you past. And other bikers will always wave, even if you're separated by 6 lanes of motorway or they're knee down in a corner.

The D991 next to Lac du Bourget and through Aix-les-Bains is defo worth remembering. The lake looks crystal clear and you can stop by the roadside for a dip. Loads of people were doing it. There's even a path in some sections between the road and the lake for safe access. South of Aix we stopped at a rather nice fish restaurant called La Maison des Pecheurs. We were too late/early for food, but a coffee and a beer was brought out to the patio for us. They have chalet rooms too, each with a balcony overlooking the lake.

The menu looked great and didn't appear expensive. There were very reasonable plat/menu de jour options.

Also south of Aix there's jetties for sunbathing and diving off.

Coming down off the D512 mountain road into Grenoble there was a lass sunbathing in the nip. She was by the roadside, hiding very badly behind a wooden shelter. An unexpected treat, but a bit of a dangerous distraction when you hoofing around twisty mountain roads.

We rode straight through Grenoble and picked up the N85 Route Napoleon. Once we'd cleared the city and the hit the wilderness we stopped at a municipal campsite in Laffrey. It's right next to the lake, which itself looks lovely. Too cold to venture in by the time we were sorted but the water looked perfectly clear. Maybe in the morning.

We were out of proper food and had no chance of getting to a shop or supermarket before they closed. The young lass on reception convinced the onsite restaurant to make up a couple extra places for dinner. Friday night is moules frites night. Every week. It's always busy and was fully booked up. They thankfully took us in and looked after us very well. The food was brilliant. Huge portions of delicious mussels and chips for €12 each. All washed down with cold beer.

170 miles

La Petite Joux

Home of giant bikes

St Claude

Patron saint of giant pipes

Day 4 - Doucier

Not much to report today. The bike is staying put, holding one end of a washing line. We've done a bit of washing, been for a swim in the lake, had a nap, caught some rays, and the Tigers threw a lunchtime bbq so we're well fed and watered.

We're popping up the road for a restaurant meal tonight. Until then, there's time for another swim and a few beers in the bar.

Day 3 - Oberbruch to Doucier

Planned on an early departure today but got chatting to a couple of bikers who were heading back home via Metz. They were into their military history so we talked about sites of interest and good roads in the area, of which there are plenty.

They'd swung by the Lochnagar Crater from the Somme which I'd like to see. It's been on the tick list for a while. I suggested they visit Fort Driant if they're going to Metz. Can't vouch for it personally but it's another one on the tick list.

They said there's a really nice municipal camp site slap bang in the centre of Metz, which is useful to know given that Metz is an easy days run back to Zebrugge.

They'd ridden through the Black Forest on Sunday. Said it was full of bikes and police speed traps. We rode it today and there was neither.

Headed north to Baden-Baden to pick up the B500 Schwarzwaldhochstrasse to Freudenstadt. It's truly awesome. Despite the weather forecasters conspiring against us, the sun was blazing and the temp around 28 degrees. Spoke to a German chap on a drop dead gorgeous custom built bike who said the weather's been like this for a week or two and it's gonna continue.

Stopped in Titisee for currywurst and chips. Convinced Catherine she was going mental because she just couldn't remember stopping at the same restaurant last time for Black Forest gateaux. Turns out it was Sam, not Catherine, who came here last time. Sorry sis. Anyway, the currywurst was pure filth and superb. White veal sausage with lashings of curry sauce and salty chips. I had a top notch espresso (which defo goes down as one of my top five ever) and Catherine had a weißbier.

Full of food, and with Catherine topped up on ale, we continued south and on to Todtnau.

Todtnau, as I understand it, lays claim to the record for having the longest dry tobogan run in Germany - the Hasenhorn Coaster.

We parked up at its base and took the ski lift ride to the top. The ride to the top takes ages - this thing is massive.

Bit of a carry on at the top while a family argued with the operator over taking their toddler down. Minimum age for riders is 4 but, despite them arguing otherwise, this kid was obviously just a nipper. The dad told the attendant to take his kid back down while he enjoyed the ride, which again had a frosty reception.

We stood in the queue bantering with a couple of young kids from Berlin. They obviously enjoyed stretching their English and were cool.

Eventually we got to front of queue. I convinced the attendant I was a pro and negotiated a huge gap between me and the kids in front. I flew down, with Catherine hot on my tail on the next sled. Not sure how safe they are. They're basically just plastic tea trays on rails. Big smiles all round though. Catherine picked up a souvenir snap then we moved on.

Next stop was Todtmoos just down the road. Cafe Zimmermann is apparently well renowned for serving the best gateau in the Black Forest. Dismiss all 80's memories of poor Sara Lee interpretations - this was the real deal and truly delicious. I understand the owner is a well decorated chef who runs masterclasses on making the perfect BFG. Catherine had one of those ice creams with a shot of espresso. She said it was delicious. I didn't get a taste, despite the fact half my gateau disappeared her way.

The waiter was a pleasant young chap with excellent English. When he told me he was from Cork in Ireland I realised why.

Rode east out of Todtmoos on some fantastic little roads to eventually pick up the autobahn out of Germany past Basel and into France.

At one point we got snapped by a speed trap. Catherine has categorized all speed cameras into two types - those that bikers can just wave at and those we need to watch out for. Thankfully this was a forward facing one so no bother.

Stuck on péage (about a tenners worth) through France to Besançon then took the N83 down to Doucier. The roads from Besançon are great and made a nice break from the monotony of motorways. Nearer doucier the road skirts around mountains and there's some very impressive landscape and some fine road engineering. We camped up at eastern end of Lake Chalain where Steve greeted us with some very well received cold beers.

We got the tents up by torch light then over to Steve and Michelles holiday bungalow for food and drink.

I think we're gonna stay put for a couple of nights and enjoy some serious chilling.

323 miles

Day 2 - Zebrugge to Oberbruch (near Baden-Baden in Black Forest)

The general consensus today was to head south through France. I asked the lass at info desk on ferry what she'd do in my shoes - ride down through France or Germany? She said she actually wouldn't be daft enough to go anywhere this week on a bike, but given the choice she'd have to take France. Jon is pinging regular forecasts over which pretty much said the same.

Weather actually looked good outside but it was only half past four or something ridiculous when they woke us with the morning campers ding dong.

This mornings breakfast was just as awesome as last nights tea. I love the P&O buffet, although they've got rid of rollmop herring at breakfast so points docked for that.

P&O have finally got their act together with strapping bikes down too. They give you ratchet straps now. Previously, all bikers had to fight over little off-cuts of blue rope. I'd foolishly brought my own ratchet strap and was constantly remindeded by my co pilot how many more shoes she could have fitted in the space if I hadn't bothered.

Set off on motorway past Brussels and the weather picked up. By Luxembourg it was 26 degrees and crystal clear ahead.

Got chatting to a Brit couple when we stopped for fuel. They were heading down to Florence and like us just chasing the sun to start with. 3 weeks cruising in a rather nice white 3 series convertible. A convertible with a private reg too, so they instantly failed two out of three man rules (the third, to those uninitiated with life's man rules, being no Facebook). Three sound rules for all men to live their life by. To be fair, the woman was driving so they were prob just nice 'burds wheels'.

Anyway, I offered them a fiver to carry all my luggage and my pillion for me. I didn't really care where they took my pillion, but I'd have liked my luggage dumping at a nice campsite. Strangely, they accepted.

We checked in with some friends, the Tigers, who were camping further down in France and they were having rain. By the time we reached Metz we both happily agreed to keep heading on through the Black Forest.  We kept on motorway and péage until we could take no more then peeled off onto some lovely scenic twisties for the last hour. I'll double-check this when the maps are to hand but I think we came off at Sarre-Union and went east on the D912 and D29. Nice roads. A bit of a chew on near Sarre-Union but it all flows nicely once you're on the right road.

Ended the day crossing over the Rhine into Germany on the Rheinmünster ferry and stopping at Adam Campingplatz just over the water. It's the same one I stopped at last time I was here and still quite faultless. The nice lass on reception only charged us for one tent so €18 all in.

We had a proper filthy tea. Fried up some merguez sausage and stuffed them into bread buns with big slices of brie. This was all washed down with wine bottle sized German beers that were in the supermarket chiller for €2 a pop. The lables looked a bit home brew but they were excellent. We picked up a small selection. The unfiltered wheat beer defo nailed the dark one (dunkel).

Went for a swim in the lake. Actually, I got ankle deep but it was bloody freezing so turned straight back round. Spent the night sat by lake supping cold beer watching other idiots swimming.

Not a bad run today. That's four countries and two ferries in one day. Tomorrow we wake up in the beautiful Black Forest near one of the best biking roads Europe has to offer. We're hoping to ride through the Black Forest and meet up with the Tigers down in France. Steve has the bbq primed and some wildebeest ready. Catherine's hoping to eat lots more cheese, after a month or two of avoiding all dairy. Obviously I'll post pics if she has any funny reactions.

352 miles

'Nuf said

We're back!

Bit of an unscheduled void in the touring calendar last year but we're back on form this year!

Heading out on the Zebrugge ferry  tonight for a bit of a play around Europe. Most of it's under 6' of water so dunno where we're heading yet. No worries though, Deano is on the case back at mission control. Forecast and recommendations due to be wired over shortly. The south of France is looking good at the mo.

Anyway, wish you were all here etc etc...

45 miles