Stopped for a coffee and a snack at a lovely little hotel east of Arabba called Al Forte. Parked the bike in their bike-only parking bay, then sat on the terrace looking down over the valley. Menu looked delicious and very reasonable but we just wanted something light. 2 cappucinos, some light food, a quick espresso and an hour of their company came to just 13 euros. Hotel looked lovely and it's perfectly located for the Dolomites. Check out www.alforte.com if I've sold it to you.
Continued on the 48 to Pocol then turned back over Passo di Giau and rode Marmolada again. Stopped at Passo di Fedaia for quick drink and got chatting to a couple of Germans driving a pristine 33 year old Mercedes 450SL.
In the space of a couple of hours we saw an Aston Martin, 2 Ferarris, 4 Ducatis and we stopped counting Porsches once we got into double figures! They love their motors over here.
Picked up the 48 again at Canazei and rode to Ora. It was busy and slow all the way. Lots of 50k speed limits, solid white lines and people driving at 30k. The heat is really rising too. Catherine kept hoping for hot weather. I trust mid-30s will be enough to shut her up!
It was a relief to hit the autoroute and pick up the pace. 65k of toll cost 4.5 euros. Great scenery all the way too.
Rode to Torbole near Riva del Garda and picked up some wine for dinner and milk for breakfast. Quickly threw the tents up in a campsite south of Torbole (yes Jon, that campsite!) then went down to the lake for dinner and a swim. There's a short underpass leading from the campsite to the lake.
It was mid evening but the light was good and temperature still about 30. Took it in turns to swim, cook and drink wine. Catherine nearly adopted a couple of little local tots called Nicola and Daniela. They were completely infatuated with this strange woman cooking vegetables and drinking wine on their lake.
Got talking to a local lad called Alex and his German work colleague whose name I'm ashamed to say we can't remember. She'd moved here 4 years ago and settled immediately into the Italian lifestyle of eating great food, drinking great coffee, chilling and biking. They are both electricians and both bikers. They'd just popped down here for a swim. Had a right laugh with them and also picked up some local knowledge. Apparently there's a restaurant in the small town of Garda (not Riva) called Graspo that serves great fish all brought in fresh every morning. The red wine to drink around here is Marzemino or Teroldego. For white drink Pinot (pronounced pee-not around these parts, not pee-no you amateurs) or Moscato. The rosé of choice is Lagrein.
More importantly, they showed us where the James Bond car chase was filmed.
They offered to ride with us one evening and show us some great little local roads and hang outs. We were gutted to have to decline but time is pressing on and we have a ferry to catch at the end of the week. Incredibly warm friendly guys though and we hope that life continues treating them both well.
164 miles
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