340m
Trip total 1040m
Exchange rate was €1.09/£
1l of 95 unleaded was around €1.30 in France and £1.05 back home
Wednesday 16 September 2009
Normandy 2009 Day 8: Home
Exchange rate was €1.09/£
1l of 95 unleaded was around €1.30 in France and £1.05 back home
Wednesday 22 July 2009
Day 17 Home
Like all good things it had to come to an end eventually. I wasn't planning to tour this year due to various things. My usual partner in crime lost his job, the exchange rates are dreadful and fuel costs are just stupid. However my sis had made a massive diary error with a trip to South America (to the tune of 12 months) so we both had holiday to burn and a desire to travel. Granted, it wasn't the cheapest time to travel but a few extra quid shouldn't stop you enjoying life and picking up some great memories.
It all worked out good in the end and the unfortunate incident in Geneva isn't going to spoil some otherwise wonderful memories. Catherine was great company and a true sport. No arguements, no hassles, no complaints. We met fantastic people wherever we went and shared some great times.
The bike proved a reliable beast and carried us, along with our two small homes and several weeks worth of kit through 7 European countries. It's shaken off all kinds of weather, all kinds of road, and an Opel Kadett without a single murmur.
Hope you guys have enjoyed following our little trip. This was certainly easier and quicker than buying stamps and postcards!
Our folks will have kittens, but I hope Catherine does do her bike test and make it a hat-trick of biking siblings. Maybe next year she'll bring her own two wheels.
Cheers sis. Cin cin!
Trip total 2756 miles
Exchange rates were €1.12/£, 1.7CHF/£, €1.5/CHF
1l of 95 unleaded was around €1.25 in Germany/Italy/France, €0.85 in Livigno, 1.55CHF in Switzerland (around €1.05) and £1.00 back home.
It all worked out good in the end and the unfortunate incident in Geneva isn't going to spoil some otherwise wonderful memories. Catherine was great company and a true sport. No arguements, no hassles, no complaints. We met fantastic people wherever we went and shared some great times.
The bike proved a reliable beast and carried us, along with our two small homes and several weeks worth of kit through 7 European countries. It's shaken off all kinds of weather, all kinds of road, and an Opel Kadett without a single murmur.
Hope you guys have enjoyed following our little trip. This was certainly easier and quicker than buying stamps and postcards!
Our folks will have kittens, but I hope Catherine does do her bike test and make it a hat-trick of biking siblings. Maybe next year she'll bring her own two wheels.
Cheers sis. Cin cin!
Exchange rates were €1.12/£, 1.7CHF/£, €1.5/CHF
1l of 95 unleaded was around €1.25 in Germany/Italy/France, €0.85 in Livigno, 1.55CHF in Switzerland (around €1.05) and £1.00 back home.
Day 16 Metz to Zeebrugge
Today was just a distance covering exercise, pure and simple. Motorway all the way to the ferry. We made really good time so called into Brugge on the way past. It's only half an hour from the ferry terminal and we had plenty of time to kill. Catherine has been before and has memories of great beer served with cheese. Sounded like my kinda place.
It really is a very pretty place. Unfortunately the road signs are typically Belgian, it's full of day trippers and the service at the cafe we chose was appallingly slow and miserable.
We parked the bike in what we assumed was the centre but were warned by another British biker that there's really no such thing. He made the mistake of leaving his bike near 'the big church' then going for a wander with his girlfriend. Once you've spend 10 minutes here, you'll understand why that will never work. It took them hours to find the bike again!
Suitably warned, we got back on the bike and went for a ride through the streets. We found a little cafe by a bridge over a canal. Again, don't use any of these as reference points - leave breadcrumbs or something. We parked the bike on the pavement and grabbed a nearby seat.
I ordered coffee, Catherine did the proper thing and ordered a Belgian beer. Both were good, but I'm sure she got the better deal. Unfortunately neither came with cheese.
The service was awful. No Italian would ever put up with this. We know because our Italian phrase book talks in depth about Italian complaining etiquette, then has an entire section entitled 'How to Complain'. You won't get that in any French or German phrase books!
Onwards to the ferry and we found ourselves at the front of the bike queue. A Scottish lass brought her son Callum over to look at the tractors been loaded. Apparently he loves tractors and motorbikes. He nearly wet himself when he saw my two-wheeled tractor!
Not much else to report really. We raised a toast to the happy memories and then we ate, drank and slept very well.
248 miles
It really is a very pretty place. Unfortunately the road signs are typically Belgian, it's full of day trippers and the service at the cafe we chose was appallingly slow and miserable.
We parked the bike in what we assumed was the centre but were warned by another British biker that there's really no such thing. He made the mistake of leaving his bike near 'the big church' then going for a wander with his girlfriend. Once you've spend 10 minutes here, you'll understand why that will never work. It took them hours to find the bike again!
Suitably warned, we got back on the bike and went for a ride through the streets. We found a little cafe by a bridge over a canal. Again, don't use any of these as reference points - leave breadcrumbs or something. We parked the bike on the pavement and grabbed a nearby seat.
I ordered coffee, Catherine did the proper thing and ordered a Belgian beer. Both were good, but I'm sure she got the better deal. Unfortunately neither came with cheese.
The service was awful. No Italian would ever put up with this. We know because our Italian phrase book talks in depth about Italian complaining etiquette, then has an entire section entitled 'How to Complain'. You won't get that in any French or German phrase books!
Onwards to the ferry and we found ourselves at the front of the bike queue. A Scottish lass brought her son Callum over to look at the tractors been loaded. Apparently he loves tractors and motorbikes. He nearly wet himself when he saw my two-wheeled tractor!
Not much else to report really. We raised a toast to the happy memories and then we ate, drank and slept very well.
248 miles
Day 15 Geneva to Metz
Geneva to Metz on the penultimate day has become a bit of an institution now. We never leave enough time to enjoy the final few days riding, but know from experience that Zeebrugge is two easy days of fast roads from Lake Geneva. The roads get duller as you head north, but there’s some great riding at the southern end and all the motorways are toll-free.
We left Geneva, realising that we only passed this way yesterday to grab a coffee in the harbour. Catherine hadn't seen the fountain (which was turned off anyway due to bad weather) and we had about 2 coffees worth of Swiss francs left over in loose change. Failing on both counts, we left only with bad memories and whiplash.
As we rode north towards Besançon, we passed a nice looking café by the roadside so did a quick U-turn and pulled in to refuel. The waitress was delightful and although Catherine couldn’t get her croquet-monsiuer, we did get a delicious warm quiche salad with some exceptional coffee. Suitably refreshed, we continued towards Besançon to find the road that we turned back on had now been closed by the Gendarmerie for the Tour de France.
Bit of a sticking point but we decided to carve a path east and hopefully find a way across the tour route. After much guess work we emerged at Baume-Les-Dames and a huge group of supporters, locals and roadblocks.
You could honestly never appreciate the atmosphere of the Tour de France from TV. The televised footage always makes it appear quite a serious affair. You see some riders, some supporters and maybe a camera man on a motorbike.
What you don’t see are the procession floats driving past and throwing sweets and hats into the crowd. The constant helicopters overhead. The officials with loud hailers hanging out of bars bellowing encouragement at the crowds. The locals going mad every time a camera goes past then running straight back into the bar to watch themselves on TV. You don’t appreciate how fast those damn bikes fly past. Or the noise and excitement of the whole spectacle. You don’t see the Gendarmerie caning it through the streets on motorbikes, punching the air and sounding their sirens to fire up the crowd. I never saw any of them pop a wheelie, but it really wouldn’t have surprised me in the slightest.
Thinking we’d never make the ferry, we resorted to a little local knowledge. A lovely young woman called Isabella was happy to practice her excellent English and spent ages drawing us a little map with directions to a bridge that would take us over the tour route. Dad – it even put your holiday maps to shame! She missed most of the action because she’d turned her back on the road to face us and explain. We kinda felt bad that she missed so much, but her little daughter caught all of the actions and was bubbling over with excitement.
Pretty much as soon as we had our directions, Isabella turned round to see the riders gone, the roadblocks been cleared and the road getting reopened! If you ever read this Isabella, we’re really sorry! Oh, and Catherine really liked your frock.
Approaching Metz, we once again resorted to our backup crew (thanks again Jon!) who tracked down some great digs in the Kyriad Hotel. It’s a chain, very much like Holiday Inn Express. We paid €69 for a twin room with breakfast. The guy on reception moved the furniture off the veranda so we could dump the bike right outside. We parked it by a window in the corner so reception could see it from inside. It was safe as houses.
We took a walk into Metz and thought it was rather nice by night. There’s quite a few restaurants but we ended up in a bar eating unspectacular pub food. We were too tired and hungry to try and translate anything more. I had moules frites, which weren’t a patch on those I had in Montpellier last year. Catherine had a greasy burger, which she really enjoyed.
277 miles
We left Geneva, realising that we only passed this way yesterday to grab a coffee in the harbour. Catherine hadn't seen the fountain (which was turned off anyway due to bad weather) and we had about 2 coffees worth of Swiss francs left over in loose change. Failing on both counts, we left only with bad memories and whiplash.
As we rode north towards Besançon, we passed a nice looking café by the roadside so did a quick U-turn and pulled in to refuel. The waitress was delightful and although Catherine couldn’t get her croquet-monsiuer, we did get a delicious warm quiche salad with some exceptional coffee. Suitably refreshed, we continued towards Besançon to find the road that we turned back on had now been closed by the Gendarmerie for the Tour de France.
Bit of a sticking point but we decided to carve a path east and hopefully find a way across the tour route. After much guess work we emerged at Baume-Les-Dames and a huge group of supporters, locals and roadblocks.
You could honestly never appreciate the atmosphere of the Tour de France from TV. The televised footage always makes it appear quite a serious affair. You see some riders, some supporters and maybe a camera man on a motorbike.
What you don’t see are the procession floats driving past and throwing sweets and hats into the crowd. The constant helicopters overhead. The officials with loud hailers hanging out of bars bellowing encouragement at the crowds. The locals going mad every time a camera goes past then running straight back into the bar to watch themselves on TV. You don’t appreciate how fast those damn bikes fly past. Or the noise and excitement of the whole spectacle. You don’t see the Gendarmerie caning it through the streets on motorbikes, punching the air and sounding their sirens to fire up the crowd. I never saw any of them pop a wheelie, but it really wouldn’t have surprised me in the slightest.
Thinking we’d never make the ferry, we resorted to a little local knowledge. A lovely young woman called Isabella was happy to practice her excellent English and spent ages drawing us a little map with directions to a bridge that would take us over the tour route. Dad – it even put your holiday maps to shame! She missed most of the action because she’d turned her back on the road to face us and explain. We kinda felt bad that she missed so much, but her little daughter caught all of the actions and was bubbling over with excitement.
Pretty much as soon as we had our directions, Isabella turned round to see the riders gone, the roadblocks been cleared and the road getting reopened! If you ever read this Isabella, we’re really sorry! Oh, and Catherine really liked your frock.
Approaching Metz, we once again resorted to our backup crew (thanks again Jon!) who tracked down some great digs in the Kyriad Hotel. It’s a chain, very much like Holiday Inn Express. We paid €69 for a twin room with breakfast. The guy on reception moved the furniture off the veranda so we could dump the bike right outside. We parked it by a window in the corner so reception could see it from inside. It was safe as houses.
We took a walk into Metz and thought it was rather nice by night. There’s quite a few restaurants but we ended up in a bar eating unspectacular pub food. We were too tired and hungry to try and translate anything more. I had moules frites, which weren’t a patch on those I had in Montpellier last year. Catherine had a greasy burger, which she really enjoyed.
277 miles
Day 14 Chamonix to Geneva
Major storm first thing this morning. I was woken up by a big pair of boots stomping around outside the tent. Opened the door and was greeted by our Danish neighbour Paul. My porch was collapsing in the storm and he was very kindly resurrecting it with some massive tent pegs and a mallet. He looked like a deep see fisherman, dressed in some of the most serious waterproofs I’ve ever seen.
Once it cleared, Andreas came over to see if we wanted anything bringing back from the bakery. I took a walk with him and picked up some excellent croissants, pain au chocolat and maple & pecan pastries. Sugar and pastry truly is the breakfast of European champions (and anyone who can’t be arsed to cook).
Andreas joined us for breakfast and we brewed him a coffee. Travelling light meant he’d not had coffee for ages, so it was a bit of a treat when we unleashed the espresso maker. Waking up to the smell and taste of fresh coffee is a real treat when you’re camping. Our little espresso maker is a great conversation piece and the envy of many campers. His wife was due to arrive from Germany later today in their motorhome, so he’d soon be returning to relative luxury and some small creature comforts.
Nice stretch of road to start the day. I don’t think there are any bad roads around here but the weather is always very changeable so a ride can quickly be spoiled. Left Chamonix and picked up the northern stretch of Route Des Grande Alpes. Cluses to Thonon-Les-Bains is always a treat and I was really looking forward to riding it. Unfortunately by the time we reached it the weather had turned again and we had to ride most of it in torrential rain.
Our trip took a serious turn for the worst after leaving Thonon. On the road between Thonon and Geneva we got shunted heavily from behind by some blind fool as we sat stationary waiting for a van in front of us to turn left. We were thrown down the road along with the bike. Don’t want to dwell on any what-ifs, but by the grace of God we didn’t hit anyone or anything else. We landed heavily in a ditch, but the transition from sitting on bike to lying in ditch is a complete blur.
Sprang up and ran to Catherine (or Sam, as I kept calling her for the next half hour or so). Seeing my kid sister thrown from a bike and crumpled in the bottom of a ditch is not something I will ever forget or want to witness again. Thankfully there were no serious injuries so after a quick check over we tried to make sense of the situation.
The driver was French-speaking Swiss. Arrogantly, he really didn’t want to speak any of my French so we had to search for a translator. Salvation came from a bar opposite in the form of a young chap called Xavier, his girlfriend (?) Jessica and a lady called Lorenze (?) (we were very dazed and confused but please let all that be right).
Those guys were great and we’d have been completely alone and lost without them. Xavier went through all the paperwork and exchanged details before getting both drivers to sign a carbon-copied motor accident form. They gave us coffee and sat with us while we got ourselves together.
The bike faired remarkably well. Apart from a mashed pannier and rack, damage was fairly cosmetic and it appeared perfectly rideable. The car was definitely worst off. This meant that with a bit of trepidation, we could continue our journey on two wheels. We left for the main hospital in Geneva who then referred us to a private clinic where we could be checked out quickly. We got a prescription which turned out to just be the worlds most expensive paracetamol and ibuprofen.
With some great emergency support from our backup crew back home (cheers Jon!) we managed to land in a hotel about 10.30pm. There’s no such thing as a cheap hotel in Geneva, but this one was less expensive than the rest.
We finished the night, inadvertently, in a gay bar. Catherine realised straight away but didn’t say anything and waited (quite some time) for me to notice. Apparently my face was an absolute picture the moment I worked it out. It was close to the hotel, it was open late, and they served us fantastic beer and croque-monsieurs (Catherine’s favourite meal is now officially ham and cheese toastie followed by apple strudel). The owner spoke excellent English and later brought a big dish of chocolates over ‘for the tourists’. Catherine swiped the lot.
123 miles
Once it cleared, Andreas came over to see if we wanted anything bringing back from the bakery. I took a walk with him and picked up some excellent croissants, pain au chocolat and maple & pecan pastries. Sugar and pastry truly is the breakfast of European champions (and anyone who can’t be arsed to cook).
Andreas joined us for breakfast and we brewed him a coffee. Travelling light meant he’d not had coffee for ages, so it was a bit of a treat when we unleashed the espresso maker. Waking up to the smell and taste of fresh coffee is a real treat when you’re camping. Our little espresso maker is a great conversation piece and the envy of many campers. His wife was due to arrive from Germany later today in their motorhome, so he’d soon be returning to relative luxury and some small creature comforts.
Nice stretch of road to start the day. I don’t think there are any bad roads around here but the weather is always very changeable so a ride can quickly be spoiled. Left Chamonix and picked up the northern stretch of Route Des Grande Alpes. Cluses to Thonon-Les-Bains is always a treat and I was really looking forward to riding it. Unfortunately by the time we reached it the weather had turned again and we had to ride most of it in torrential rain.
Our trip took a serious turn for the worst after leaving Thonon. On the road between Thonon and Geneva we got shunted heavily from behind by some blind fool as we sat stationary waiting for a van in front of us to turn left. We were thrown down the road along with the bike. Don’t want to dwell on any what-ifs, but by the grace of God we didn’t hit anyone or anything else. We landed heavily in a ditch, but the transition from sitting on bike to lying in ditch is a complete blur.
Sprang up and ran to Catherine (or Sam, as I kept calling her for the next half hour or so). Seeing my kid sister thrown from a bike and crumpled in the bottom of a ditch is not something I will ever forget or want to witness again. Thankfully there were no serious injuries so after a quick check over we tried to make sense of the situation.
The driver was French-speaking Swiss. Arrogantly, he really didn’t want to speak any of my French so we had to search for a translator. Salvation came from a bar opposite in the form of a young chap called Xavier, his girlfriend (?) Jessica and a lady called Lorenze (?) (we were very dazed and confused but please let all that be right).
Those guys were great and we’d have been completely alone and lost without them. Xavier went through all the paperwork and exchanged details before getting both drivers to sign a carbon-copied motor accident form. They gave us coffee and sat with us while we got ourselves together.
The bike faired remarkably well. Apart from a mashed pannier and rack, damage was fairly cosmetic and it appeared perfectly rideable. The car was definitely worst off. This meant that with a bit of trepidation, we could continue our journey on two wheels. We left for the main hospital in Geneva who then referred us to a private clinic where we could be checked out quickly. We got a prescription which turned out to just be the worlds most expensive paracetamol and ibuprofen.
With some great emergency support from our backup crew back home (cheers Jon!) we managed to land in a hotel about 10.30pm. There’s no such thing as a cheap hotel in Geneva, but this one was less expensive than the rest.
We finished the night, inadvertently, in a gay bar. Catherine realised straight away but didn’t say anything and waited (quite some time) for me to notice. Apparently my face was an absolute picture the moment I worked it out. It was close to the hotel, it was open late, and they served us fantastic beer and croque-monsieurs (Catherine’s favourite meal is now officially ham and cheese toastie followed by apple strudel). The owner spoke excellent English and later brought a big dish of chocolates over ‘for the tourists’. Catherine swiped the lot.
123 miles
Tuesday 21 July 2009
Blog updates
Sorry for lack of updates but my phone completely packed up last week. We're back in the UK now so I've starting posting, updating and amending. I've added maps and profiles to existing posts and enabled anonymous comments.
You didn't honestly think I'd be daft enough to allow anonymous comments while we were away, did you?
You didn't honestly think I'd be daft enough to allow anonymous comments while we were away, did you?
Monday 20 July 2009
Day 13 Lake Como to Chamonix
Quick swim this morning and some great pain au chocolat from the campsite.
Tokens needed for hot water in the showers but it's far too hot for such nonsense so I took a very refreshing cold one.
Had a quick look at the weather forecast in Vickys paper. There's storms to the north and 39 degrees of heat to the west!
Took a very pleasant route down Lake Como then picked up the S340 over Lake Lugano. It's another beautiful lake. Took the motorway north towards Locarno then rode down Lake Maggiore to (Obi Wan) Cannobio.
Stopped at a little pasticceria in Cannobio. Catherine had an ice cream and cold drink. I had a coffee and some little cakes. Like the bread over here, the cakes were sold by weight. Bev - it was like a quaint little Italian Bettys!
Decided to ride higher into the mountains rather than follow the lake and hopefully lose some of this heat. It didn't work and we now know why Michelin mark the P631 as 'dangerous or difficult'. Avoid this one. It's just about wide enough for one car and almost every corner is blind and hanging onto the edge of a cliff. We were very nearly cleaned up by some guy who was driving at the wrong side of the road. He didn't see us until the last second and then swerved towards us when he did. Not an experience I'd want to repeat.
The S33 on the other hand is great. Over the border, over the Simplonpass and down to Brig. Excellent stretch of road and it's now duly noted as one of my favourite passes.
The road over to Chamonix is lovely and the first views of Mont Blanc, as it appears between the trees, are breathtaking.
Tried to get into a campsite in Chamonix which I've used before and remember it had excellent showers. Unfortunately it had closed down, although I couldn't tell if they were demolishing or refurbishing it. Campsite number two was full so I resorted to satnav and thankfully we got lucky with campsite number 3.
The receptionist was a feisty French woman who made a complete mockery out of my language skills. We didn't exchange a word of English so I really tried, but everytime I got something slightly wrong she'd jab her finger at me and shout. She was a right minx. I could hear Catherine peeing herself laughing outside. Catherine remembered how my French teacher at school used to report that I had 'the best Yorkshire-French accent she'd ever heard'. She never understood what that meant until this day.
Got the tents pitched up in a small plot with some other bikers. Paul and Arnie were Danish and checked in just after me. When I asked if they spoke English, Paul replied 'better than your French'! Bit harsh I thought, but this set Catherine off again and she was crying with laughter by now.
Had an Italian chap called Oscar nextdoor and a German called Andreas opposite. Everyone apart from us was climbing Mont Blanc.
Popped into Chamonix for some food. It's a funny town where everything apart from the tourist-orientated restaurants closes early. We picked up a bag of groceries from a little shop selling local produce. We paid 32 euros for a couple of bottles of wine, some sausage, bread and goats cheese. All of it was excellent and made for a great meal.
Andreas was sat out listening to some tunes on his iPod so we invited him to join us for a drink. He accepted and made for good conversation. He is a pastor from Germany and a genuinely nice chap. Rode down to Chamonix on his push bike, towing a trailor with 40kg of camping and climbing equipment. Says he's trying to get a little bit more active as he gets older. Last year he rode his 1100GS down through Africa from Spain. Now he's ridden a pushbike from Germany to climb Mont Blanc!
213 miles
Tokens needed for hot water in the showers but it's far too hot for such nonsense so I took a very refreshing cold one.
Had a quick look at the weather forecast in Vickys paper. There's storms to the north and 39 degrees of heat to the west!
Took a very pleasant route down Lake Como then picked up the S340 over Lake Lugano. It's another beautiful lake. Took the motorway north towards Locarno then rode down Lake Maggiore to (Obi Wan) Cannobio.
Stopped at a little pasticceria in Cannobio. Catherine had an ice cream and cold drink. I had a coffee and some little cakes. Like the bread over here, the cakes were sold by weight. Bev - it was like a quaint little Italian Bettys!
Decided to ride higher into the mountains rather than follow the lake and hopefully lose some of this heat. It didn't work and we now know why Michelin mark the P631 as 'dangerous or difficult'. Avoid this one. It's just about wide enough for one car and almost every corner is blind and hanging onto the edge of a cliff. We were very nearly cleaned up by some guy who was driving at the wrong side of the road. He didn't see us until the last second and then swerved towards us when he did. Not an experience I'd want to repeat.
The S33 on the other hand is great. Over the border, over the Simplonpass and down to Brig. Excellent stretch of road and it's now duly noted as one of my favourite passes.
The road over to Chamonix is lovely and the first views of Mont Blanc, as it appears between the trees, are breathtaking.
Tried to get into a campsite in Chamonix which I've used before and remember it had excellent showers. Unfortunately it had closed down, although I couldn't tell if they were demolishing or refurbishing it. Campsite number two was full so I resorted to satnav and thankfully we got lucky with campsite number 3.
The receptionist was a feisty French woman who made a complete mockery out of my language skills. We didn't exchange a word of English so I really tried, but everytime I got something slightly wrong she'd jab her finger at me and shout. She was a right minx. I could hear Catherine peeing herself laughing outside. Catherine remembered how my French teacher at school used to report that I had 'the best Yorkshire-French accent she'd ever heard'. She never understood what that meant until this day.
Got the tents pitched up in a small plot with some other bikers. Paul and Arnie were Danish and checked in just after me. When I asked if they spoke English, Paul replied 'better than your French'! Bit harsh I thought, but this set Catherine off again and she was crying with laughter by now.
Had an Italian chap called Oscar nextdoor and a German called Andreas opposite. Everyone apart from us was climbing Mont Blanc.
Popped into Chamonix for some food. It's a funny town where everything apart from the tourist-orientated restaurants closes early. We picked up a bag of groceries from a little shop selling local produce. We paid 32 euros for a couple of bottles of wine, some sausage, bread and goats cheese. All of it was excellent and made for a great meal.
Andreas was sat out listening to some tunes on his iPod so we invited him to join us for a drink. He accepted and made for good conversation. He is a pastor from Germany and a genuinely nice chap. Rode down to Chamonix on his push bike, towing a trailor with 40kg of camping and climbing equipment. Says he's trying to get a little bit more active as he gets older. Last year he rode his 1100GS down through Africa from Spain. Now he's ridden a pushbike from Germany to climb Mont Blanc!
213 miles
Friday 17 July 2009
Phone goosed
My phone has been dying for the last week or so and is now officially on it's last legs. Screen is pretty much unreadable. We'll try to keep posting but if we stop, you know why.
Expect lots of typos in any posts we do make and I'll sort them out when we return.
Expect lots of typos in any posts we do make and I'll sort them out when we return.
Day 12 Lake Garda to Lake Como
Took breakfast down to the lake this morning and went for an early swim. There was a mad flash storm that disappeared as quick as it came then the temperature was straight back into the mid 30s.
Catherine needed to get on the Internet briefly for work so we rode into Torbole and found a bicycle shop with an Internet point. The owner was a bit funny about me dumping the bike on his plot then he charged us 5 quid for 2 small bottles of juice. Won't be going there again.
We'd planned to ride around the lake then head west but a Dutch chap told us it's a good 3 hour ride due to traffic. I can't cope with this heat so we picked up the 240 and headed west to Breno.
Road was pretty bad. We saw one nice section around Storo but the rest was slow, bumpy and narrow. One or two villages looked nice. Think it was Bagolino that we rode through and liked, but our memory aint what it used to be so don't quote us.
Stopped at Breno for fuel and food. Catherine picked up some bread, cheese and meat from the shop and the chap at the petrol station let us use his gazebo to eat our little picnic. We now know the Italian for gazebo is 'gazebo'
We couldn't cope with any more of these roads so took the S42 north to Edolo then S39 and 38 west to Domaso on Lake Como. Didn't turn out to be much quicker or cooler in the end. The only notable section for riding was Passo dell Aprica between Aprica and Tresenda, which was superb. The rest was slow and dull. These roads are full of lorries, coaches and day dreaming Sunday drivers.
Tried the first campsite in Domaso but the guy wanted 39 euros for the night! It had a pool but that was closed anyway. Thought he was taking the mick so went next door where the nice chap gave us a plot for 19 euros and huge bottles of ice cold Peroni for 2 euros a pop. Perfect!
Our neighbour was an incredibly entertaining woman called Vicky and her fella Mikey. Mad as a box of frogs but great company. She told us her very colourful life story of moving from California to Germany in the 70s. They were currently renting a holiday chalet for a few weeks. 59 euros a night but it looked really nice. They cranked up some Pink Floyd and had their own little Italian Woodstock.
Went for evening swim in Lake Como. Certainly not as clear or clean as Lake Garda. I seem to recall that no motorboats are allowed on Garda and this keeps it crystal clear. Como was still nice though. Plenty of people swimming in it and we all lived to tell the tale.
Nothing for tea so over the road to a pizza restaurant for takeouts. Very nice pizzas washed down with more ice cold Peroni.
Sky was perfectly clear so Catherine managed to see her first ever satellites. Vicky joined us for a nightcap and to watch the sky for a while. This naturally led on to tales of her UFO sightings, although she'd seen lots of crazy things in her time. We're not sure how much was 'under the influence', but I'd imagine most of it!
146 miles
Catherine needed to get on the Internet briefly for work so we rode into Torbole and found a bicycle shop with an Internet point. The owner was a bit funny about me dumping the bike on his plot then he charged us 5 quid for 2 small bottles of juice. Won't be going there again.
We'd planned to ride around the lake then head west but a Dutch chap told us it's a good 3 hour ride due to traffic. I can't cope with this heat so we picked up the 240 and headed west to Breno.
Road was pretty bad. We saw one nice section around Storo but the rest was slow, bumpy and narrow. One or two villages looked nice. Think it was Bagolino that we rode through and liked, but our memory aint what it used to be so don't quote us.
Stopped at Breno for fuel and food. Catherine picked up some bread, cheese and meat from the shop and the chap at the petrol station let us use his gazebo to eat our little picnic. We now know the Italian for gazebo is 'gazebo'
We couldn't cope with any more of these roads so took the S42 north to Edolo then S39 and 38 west to Domaso on Lake Como. Didn't turn out to be much quicker or cooler in the end. The only notable section for riding was Passo dell Aprica between Aprica and Tresenda, which was superb. The rest was slow and dull. These roads are full of lorries, coaches and day dreaming Sunday drivers.
Tried the first campsite in Domaso but the guy wanted 39 euros for the night! It had a pool but that was closed anyway. Thought he was taking the mick so went next door where the nice chap gave us a plot for 19 euros and huge bottles of ice cold Peroni for 2 euros a pop. Perfect!
Our neighbour was an incredibly entertaining woman called Vicky and her fella Mikey. Mad as a box of frogs but great company. She told us her very colourful life story of moving from California to Germany in the 70s. They were currently renting a holiday chalet for a few weeks. 59 euros a night but it looked really nice. They cranked up some Pink Floyd and had their own little Italian Woodstock.
Went for evening swim in Lake Como. Certainly not as clear or clean as Lake Garda. I seem to recall that no motorboats are allowed on Garda and this keeps it crystal clear. Como was still nice though. Plenty of people swimming in it and we all lived to tell the tale.
Nothing for tea so over the road to a pizza restaurant for takeouts. Very nice pizzas washed down with more ice cold Peroni.
Sky was perfectly clear so Catherine managed to see her first ever satellites. Vicky joined us for a nightcap and to watch the sky for a while. This naturally led on to tales of her UFO sightings, although she'd seen lots of crazy things in her time. We're not sure how much was 'under the influence', but I'd imagine most of it!
146 miles
Wednesday 15 July 2009
Lake Garda
We're sat eating breakfast on the lakeside. The coffee's brewing and the water's lovely. We were in for a morning dip about 7.30am.
Day 11 Canazei to Lake Garda
Decided to ride a little loop around the Dolomites, taking in some of the roads that we missed yesterday, then ride down to Lake Garda. Took the 48 east towards Cortina. It opens up wonderfully after Arabba.
Stopped for a coffee and a snack at a lovely little hotel east of Arabba called Al Forte. Parked the bike in their bike-only parking bay, then sat on the terrace looking down over the valley. Menu looked delicious and very reasonable but we just wanted something light. 2 cappucinos, some light food, a quick espresso and an hour of their company came to just 13 euros. Hotel looked lovely and it's perfectly located for the Dolomites. Check out www.alforte.com if I've sold it to you.
Continued on the 48 to Pocol then turned back over Passo di Giau and rode Marmolada again. Stopped at Passo di Fedaia for quick drink and got chatting to a couple of Germans driving a pristine 33 year old Mercedes 450SL.
In the space of a couple of hours we saw an Aston Martin, 2 Ferarris, 4 Ducatis and we stopped counting Porsches once we got into double figures! They love their motors over here.
Picked up the 48 again at Canazei and rode to Ora. It was busy and slow all the way. Lots of 50k speed limits, solid white lines and people driving at 30k. The heat is really rising too. Catherine kept hoping for hot weather. I trust mid-30s will be enough to shut her up!
It was a relief to hit the autoroute and pick up the pace. 65k of toll cost 4.5 euros. Great scenery all the way too.
Rode to Torbole near Riva del Garda and picked up some wine for dinner and milk for breakfast. Quickly threw the tents up in a campsite south of Torbole (yes Jon, that campsite!) then went down to the lake for dinner and a swim. There's a short underpass leading from the campsite to the lake.
It was mid evening but the light was good and temperature still about 30. Took it in turns to swim, cook and drink wine. Catherine nearly adopted a couple of little local tots called Nicola and Daniela. They were completely infatuated with this strange woman cooking vegetables and drinking wine on their lake.
Got talking to a local lad called Alex and his German work colleague whose name I'm ashamed to say we can't remember. She'd moved here 4 years ago and settled immediately into the Italian lifestyle of eating great food, drinking great coffee, chilling and biking. They are both electricians and both bikers. They'd just popped down here for a swim. Had a right laugh with them and also picked up some local knowledge. Apparently there's a restaurant in the small town of Garda (not Riva) called Graspo that serves great fish all brought in fresh every morning. The red wine to drink around here is Marzemino or Teroldego. For white drink Pinot (pronounced pee-not around these parts, not pee-no you amateurs) or Moscato. The rosé of choice is Lagrein.
More importantly, they showed us where the James Bond car chase was filmed.
They offered to ride with us one evening and show us some great little local roads and hang outs. We were gutted to have to decline but time is pressing on and we have a ferry to catch at the end of the week. Incredibly warm friendly guys though and we hope that life continues treating them both well.
164 miles
Stopped for a coffee and a snack at a lovely little hotel east of Arabba called Al Forte. Parked the bike in their bike-only parking bay, then sat on the terrace looking down over the valley. Menu looked delicious and very reasonable but we just wanted something light. 2 cappucinos, some light food, a quick espresso and an hour of their company came to just 13 euros. Hotel looked lovely and it's perfectly located for the Dolomites. Check out www.alforte.com if I've sold it to you.
Continued on the 48 to Pocol then turned back over Passo di Giau and rode Marmolada again. Stopped at Passo di Fedaia for quick drink and got chatting to a couple of Germans driving a pristine 33 year old Mercedes 450SL.
In the space of a couple of hours we saw an Aston Martin, 2 Ferarris, 4 Ducatis and we stopped counting Porsches once we got into double figures! They love their motors over here.
Picked up the 48 again at Canazei and rode to Ora. It was busy and slow all the way. Lots of 50k speed limits, solid white lines and people driving at 30k. The heat is really rising too. Catherine kept hoping for hot weather. I trust mid-30s will be enough to shut her up!
It was a relief to hit the autoroute and pick up the pace. 65k of toll cost 4.5 euros. Great scenery all the way too.
Rode to Torbole near Riva del Garda and picked up some wine for dinner and milk for breakfast. Quickly threw the tents up in a campsite south of Torbole (yes Jon, that campsite!) then went down to the lake for dinner and a swim. There's a short underpass leading from the campsite to the lake.
It was mid evening but the light was good and temperature still about 30. Took it in turns to swim, cook and drink wine. Catherine nearly adopted a couple of little local tots called Nicola and Daniela. They were completely infatuated with this strange woman cooking vegetables and drinking wine on their lake.
Got talking to a local lad called Alex and his German work colleague whose name I'm ashamed to say we can't remember. She'd moved here 4 years ago and settled immediately into the Italian lifestyle of eating great food, drinking great coffee, chilling and biking. They are both electricians and both bikers. They'd just popped down here for a swim. Had a right laugh with them and also picked up some local knowledge. Apparently there's a restaurant in the small town of Garda (not Riva) called Graspo that serves great fish all brought in fresh every morning. The red wine to drink around here is Marzemino or Teroldego. For white drink Pinot (pronounced pee-not around these parts, not pee-no you amateurs) or Moscato. The rosé of choice is Lagrein.
More importantly, they showed us where the James Bond car chase was filmed.
They offered to ride with us one evening and show us some great little local roads and hang outs. We were gutted to have to decline but time is pressing on and we have a ferry to catch at the end of the week. Incredibly warm friendly guys though and we hope that life continues treating them both well.
164 miles
Tuesday 14 July 2009
Day 10 Canazei loop
Bit of a treat not having to pack up our homes this morning but we still couldn't manage an early start!
Got acquainted with our Dutch neighbours Mario and Bridget over breakfast, plus their friendly little Jack Russell who we're sure was called Lorenzo. Don't know how much time they spend on the road, but there was very little that Mario didn't know about travelling around Europe. We talked about our plans for Italy and France. They told us about Limone and Sirmione on Lake Garda and suggested a visit while we were there. They also gave us free use of their fridge which was jolly decent of them.
We headed north out of Canazei and climbed Catherine's first Dolomite pass - Passo di Sella. She's suitably impressed, especially with the local goat and cow population who happily posed for photos. I forgot how lovely the roads are around here - lots of fast sticky tarmac. Alpine passes tend to start with longer stretches of road between hairpins that shorten as you get higher. Here it's less predictable and you can get short sections at the bottom that open up into long stretches as you gain height. It's all great stuff though.
We carved a long outer Dolomite loop from Canazei to Cortina (hi dad!) taking in Drei Zinnen as we looped anti-clockwise from Cortina.
Passo di Valporola is absolutely superb. Off the main Dolomite road, it was quiet but fast and completely free of coaches and camper vans.
Drei Zinnen is a short toll road leading up to some of the best views of the Dolomites. 10 euro seemed a bit steep but we've travelled this far so we happily paid up and moved into some absolutely knockout scenery.
Cortina on the other hand is just a necessary evil. I'm sure it's lovely in winter during the ski season but today it's just roadworks, tourists and frustration. It's a big broken town that looks like they can't be arsed to fix. Dad, you'll never know the effort we put into trying to get a photo for you but the lazy buggers can't even put a town sign up. Even finding a petrol station that worked was almost impossible.
Hot and frustrated, we left town and stopped for provisions in a lovely little place to the south.
Suitably chilled we rode Passo Cibiana and Passo Duran (Duran). Not really ones to note - tight roads that are falling apart and literally crumbling over the edge. I remember Deano enjoyed Passo Duran when we were here a few years ago but it's either fallen apart since or he's just a bit mental!
Stopped at a little cafe on Passo Cibiana. We were served killer espressos by a lovely Italian girl with the looks of an angel and the coffee machine of the gods. Treated Catherine to some apple strudel. This place now officially serves the best apple strudel in Europe. Disagree and you'll have Catherine to answer to.
We'd unexpectedly saved the best roads until last and found a true gem of a route back to Canazei. From Agordo, a lovely looking town, take the 203 to Alleghe, an even lovelier looking town. Pick up the 641 from Caprile back to Canazei and ride over Marmolada. The roads are fast and smooth and the scenery stunning. We rode it late, arriving back at 9pm but this just meant the roads were really quiet and the temperature was still 22 degrees when we got back.
Come here in summer when the days are long and it's the best way to appreciate this magnificent road.
155 miles
Got acquainted with our Dutch neighbours Mario and Bridget over breakfast, plus their friendly little Jack Russell who we're sure was called Lorenzo. Don't know how much time they spend on the road, but there was very little that Mario didn't know about travelling around Europe. We talked about our plans for Italy and France. They told us about Limone and Sirmione on Lake Garda and suggested a visit while we were there. They also gave us free use of their fridge which was jolly decent of them.
We headed north out of Canazei and climbed Catherine's first Dolomite pass - Passo di Sella. She's suitably impressed, especially with the local goat and cow population who happily posed for photos. I forgot how lovely the roads are around here - lots of fast sticky tarmac. Alpine passes tend to start with longer stretches of road between hairpins that shorten as you get higher. Here it's less predictable and you can get short sections at the bottom that open up into long stretches as you gain height. It's all great stuff though.
We carved a long outer Dolomite loop from Canazei to Cortina (hi dad!) taking in Drei Zinnen as we looped anti-clockwise from Cortina.
Passo di Valporola is absolutely superb. Off the main Dolomite road, it was quiet but fast and completely free of coaches and camper vans.
Drei Zinnen is a short toll road leading up to some of the best views of the Dolomites. 10 euro seemed a bit steep but we've travelled this far so we happily paid up and moved into some absolutely knockout scenery.
Cortina on the other hand is just a necessary evil. I'm sure it's lovely in winter during the ski season but today it's just roadworks, tourists and frustration. It's a big broken town that looks like they can't be arsed to fix. Dad, you'll never know the effort we put into trying to get a photo for you but the lazy buggers can't even put a town sign up. Even finding a petrol station that worked was almost impossible.
Hot and frustrated, we left town and stopped for provisions in a lovely little place to the south.
Suitably chilled we rode Passo Cibiana and Passo Duran (Duran). Not really ones to note - tight roads that are falling apart and literally crumbling over the edge. I remember Deano enjoyed Passo Duran when we were here a few years ago but it's either fallen apart since or he's just a bit mental!
Stopped at a little cafe on Passo Cibiana. We were served killer espressos by a lovely Italian girl with the looks of an angel and the coffee machine of the gods. Treated Catherine to some apple strudel. This place now officially serves the best apple strudel in Europe. Disagree and you'll have Catherine to answer to.
We'd unexpectedly saved the best roads until last and found a true gem of a route back to Canazei. From Agordo, a lovely looking town, take the 203 to Alleghe, an even lovelier looking town. Pick up the 641 from Caprile back to Canazei and ride over Marmolada. The roads are fast and smooth and the scenery stunning. We rode it late, arriving back at 9pm but this just meant the roads were really quiet and the temperature was still 22 degrees when we got back.
Come here in summer when the days are long and it's the best way to appreciate this magnificent road.
155 miles
Monday 13 July 2009
Catherine's first Dolomite pass
Day 9 Livigno to Canazei
The shower turned out to be ok. Some people always shower in less than 3 mins. I'm not one of them but it did the job.
It was down to 5 degrees before we turned in last night. We got up for a wee during night and there was frost on the tents. We were surrounded by mountains and glaciers though so it would be wrong to expect any different.
Seemed appropriate to do Stelvio Pass today. It was Sunday so we assumed it would be busy with plenty of local bikers and we were just around the corner from it. It was actually even better than i expected. Not a road you can rush but there was shed loads of bikes out playing. I thought it might just be a box ticking exercise but the road's enjoyable for the fantastic scenery, bike watching and slightly more technical riding. There's a huge feeling of isolation too, even though there's plenty of other traffic around.
We got in a huge queue behind a French people carrier but picked off all the traffic and quickly cleared the lot. Always surprises me that some bikers won't ever consider overtaking other bikes. Quick bip of the horn and a lifesaver then gun it past everything you can as quick as possible. The done thing over here is to stick your right leg out in acknowledgement as you pass. It also maintains karma with car drivers who might otherwise think sounding the horn was meant aggressively. Once we picked our way past the congestion we had a perfectly clear run to the top with absolutely no other traffic anywhere to be seen behind. It was quality.
Obligatory photos at the top. Catherine picked up some marmot postcards, then nearly wet herself with excitement when she saw some wild ones on the way back down the other side. If any prospective mate could bag her one I think they'd be in.
Bit of tyre kicking and banter at top. No other Brits mind but that never stops people over here. Got talking to an Italian chap who happened to be Giovanni Sala, the ex KTM enduro racer. Thoroughly nice chap who'd popped up for a quick blast on his KTM Adventure. Would have loved to see him tackle the descent but he was chilling and we needed to make tracks. Obviously we had to rope him into a quick photo call first and he happily obliged...
Had a great bratwurst at the top too. The full works with sauerkraut and all the trimmings.
We rode S38 east. Not marked as such on the map but it's lovely valley with rolling farmland up the hillsides and mountains in front and behind. Stopped at petrol station. The cafe was closing but the young waitress kindly left a table and chairs outside for us so we could sit down while we looked at the maps.
Decided to push on to Dolomites and find a base for a couple of nights. Hit some toll motorway but it only cost us 60 cents. The S241 took us to a campsite at Canazei with fantastic views of the Dolomites all the way. Campsite's got excellent free showers and a lovely receptionist who speaks perfect English. Unfortunately it's also got no loo roll and rock hard ground. Our German neighbours came straight over to kindly lend us a mallet though.
Don't want to tempt fate but the weather's been incredibly kind to us over the last few days and it's getting hotter still as we move further into Italy. May it please continue.
Treated ourselves to proper Italian pizza for tea from a little restaurant nearby (as recommended by our friendly receptionist). Catherine once again fell instantly in love with an Italian waiter, although she hoofed me under the table when I was about to practice my matchmaking skills. Apparently the more beer he brought her, the more attractive he got.
It wasn't beer goggles, I think he'd just worked out that she's a wino.
142 miles
It was down to 5 degrees before we turned in last night. We got up for a wee during night and there was frost on the tents. We were surrounded by mountains and glaciers though so it would be wrong to expect any different.
Seemed appropriate to do Stelvio Pass today. It was Sunday so we assumed it would be busy with plenty of local bikers and we were just around the corner from it. It was actually even better than i expected. Not a road you can rush but there was shed loads of bikes out playing. I thought it might just be a box ticking exercise but the road's enjoyable for the fantastic scenery, bike watching and slightly more technical riding. There's a huge feeling of isolation too, even though there's plenty of other traffic around.
We got in a huge queue behind a French people carrier but picked off all the traffic and quickly cleared the lot. Always surprises me that some bikers won't ever consider overtaking other bikes. Quick bip of the horn and a lifesaver then gun it past everything you can as quick as possible. The done thing over here is to stick your right leg out in acknowledgement as you pass. It also maintains karma with car drivers who might otherwise think sounding the horn was meant aggressively. Once we picked our way past the congestion we had a perfectly clear run to the top with absolutely no other traffic anywhere to be seen behind. It was quality.
Obligatory photos at the top. Catherine picked up some marmot postcards, then nearly wet herself with excitement when she saw some wild ones on the way back down the other side. If any prospective mate could bag her one I think they'd be in.
Bit of tyre kicking and banter at top. No other Brits mind but that never stops people over here. Got talking to an Italian chap who happened to be Giovanni Sala, the ex KTM enduro racer. Thoroughly nice chap who'd popped up for a quick blast on his KTM Adventure. Would have loved to see him tackle the descent but he was chilling and we needed to make tracks. Obviously we had to rope him into a quick photo call first and he happily obliged...
Had a great bratwurst at the top too. The full works with sauerkraut and all the trimmings.
We rode S38 east. Not marked as such on the map but it's lovely valley with rolling farmland up the hillsides and mountains in front and behind. Stopped at petrol station. The cafe was closing but the young waitress kindly left a table and chairs outside for us so we could sit down while we looked at the maps.
Decided to push on to Dolomites and find a base for a couple of nights. Hit some toll motorway but it only cost us 60 cents. The S241 took us to a campsite at Canazei with fantastic views of the Dolomites all the way. Campsite's got excellent free showers and a lovely receptionist who speaks perfect English. Unfortunately it's also got no loo roll and rock hard ground. Our German neighbours came straight over to kindly lend us a mallet though.
Don't want to tempt fate but the weather's been incredibly kind to us over the last few days and it's getting hotter still as we move further into Italy. May it please continue.
Treated ourselves to proper Italian pizza for tea from a little restaurant nearby (as recommended by our friendly receptionist). Catherine once again fell instantly in love with an Italian waiter, although she hoofed me under the table when I was about to practice my matchmaking skills. Apparently the more beer he brought her, the more attractive he got.
It wasn't beer goggles, I think he'd just worked out that she's a wino.
142 miles
Sunday 12 July 2009
Stelvio Pass
Back home we have Squires milk bar on Sundays. A short blast on over-policed roads to drink mediocre coffee. In Italy they have the Stelvio Pass. 40 or so hairpins either side up and down a mountain to 2757m.
We woke up about 30 mins from it this morning and we're currently sat in a cafe in Bormio drinking the worlds best coffee waiting to attack it. Cappucino over here tastes of real coffee and costs peanuts. Our bike is dumped outside taking up most of the pavement and nobody has batted an eyelid.
We're been served by a stunning Italian woman who smiles even though I'm sat in her lovely cafe in very well travelled leathers.
There's currently a roadie race that's closed the pass but it opens at 2.30. Two coppers are stood at the bottom controlling traffic but in true Italian style that's far too much effort so they are just stood looking cool and admiring all things female. Catherine was in her element but traffic was absolute chaos.
Life doesn't get much better than this!
We woke up about 30 mins from it this morning and we're currently sat in a cafe in Bormio drinking the worlds best coffee waiting to attack it. Cappucino over here tastes of real coffee and costs peanuts. Our bike is dumped outside taking up most of the pavement and nobody has batted an eyelid.
We're been served by a stunning Italian woman who smiles even though I'm sat in her lovely cafe in very well travelled leathers.
There's currently a roadie race that's closed the pass but it opens at 2.30. Two coppers are stood at the bottom controlling traffic but in true Italian style that's far too much effort so they are just stood looking cool and admiring all things female. Catherine was in her element but traffic was absolute chaos.
Life doesn't get much better than this!
Day 8 Lantsch/Lenz to Livigno
One of us was up at crack of dawn and rode bike into nearest town to buy food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The other one slept soundly until I returned and got the kettle on.
Chatted to a Dutch roadie over breakfast. Nice old chap. He rode a beautiful full carbon road bike. That included wheels and levers too. Full Campag groupset. Could pick it up with my little finger. Gorgeous bike. Think he said it cost about 3.5k and weighed about 6.
We had been recommended the Albulapass by several people and Top Gear reckon they found the worlds best driving road between Davos and Bormio. All were within spitting distance so we decided to ride a figure of 8 loop then leave Switzerland over Passo del Bernina.
The roads south to Albulapass were lovely but we've already mentioned the fatal accident on the pass. This obviously dampened our spirits but after chewing over some excellent coffee in a posh restaurant near St Moritz we moved north east to Zernez then north west to Davos. Roads and scenery both stunning. Davos looks touristy and busy but we are into the weekend so traffic has picked up significantly everywhere. Lots of posh shops and hotels in Davos and then they have what must be the worlds only remaining C&A, complete with original logo and possibly authentic clothing range.
Albulapass wasn't so great after all. It was a tight bumpy road and although it appeared quite desolate, we've seen more spectacular scenery on this trip. Still, you always need to go exploring to work these things out on a biking trip.
All scenery around Davos was stunning though and I don't think you'd be disappointed with any of these roads. Every village around here is very pretty too. They all look very wild west.
Heading south, Passo del Bernina is fantastic. Fast sweeping bends on immaculate surfaces. Shortly after the pass we turned north east into Italy and the Livigno valley. The rest of the road south from Passo del Bernina looked great but we wanted to move into Italy and Catherine was very insistent that the Italian men would be getting impatient without her. Not one to disappoint, I delivered her safely into her intended new homeland.
Great roads and we called it a day in Livigno. It's a tax-free heaven around here! Unleaded was 85 cents a litre as opposed to around 1.25 euros in the neighbouring countries. The downside is that everyone overfills so there's diesel all over the roads in and out. Go very careful in the wet.
There is a campsite in the centre of the village that looks like a dodgy RV park but tucked behind the super behemouths is a small tent plot full of mountain bikers. Never realised it was a big biking spot but I'll have to check this out when we return home. Lots of different nationalities drive from far and wide to ride these mountains. We are the only Brits here but there's lots of eastern Europeans. All very friendly, as you'd expect from a mountain biking crowd, and all happy to join us in talking bollocks for the night. There are apparently ski lift facilities to the peaks although the big group of Czechs next to us say the singletrack climbs are good riding too.
The facilities here are spotless. I've honestly stayed in hotels with worst. Showers are 1 euro for 3 mins. Better be good but I'll report back tomorrow.
Catherine cooked another superb tea and we enjoyed our excellent duty free wine from the local store. For 4 or 5 quid you can get some seriously good wine. For 7 quid you can get a litre of Gordons. If you're really posh, you can get 2 litres of wine in a basket for a tenner! I didn't keep close tabs on Catherine but if the bike feels one or two litres heavier tomorrow, there'll be a gin amnesty.
148 miles
Chatted to a Dutch roadie over breakfast. Nice old chap. He rode a beautiful full carbon road bike. That included wheels and levers too. Full Campag groupset. Could pick it up with my little finger. Gorgeous bike. Think he said it cost about 3.5k and weighed about 6.
We had been recommended the Albulapass by several people and Top Gear reckon they found the worlds best driving road between Davos and Bormio. All were within spitting distance so we decided to ride a figure of 8 loop then leave Switzerland over Passo del Bernina.
The roads south to Albulapass were lovely but we've already mentioned the fatal accident on the pass. This obviously dampened our spirits but after chewing over some excellent coffee in a posh restaurant near St Moritz we moved north east to Zernez then north west to Davos. Roads and scenery both stunning. Davos looks touristy and busy but we are into the weekend so traffic has picked up significantly everywhere. Lots of posh shops and hotels in Davos and then they have what must be the worlds only remaining C&A, complete with original logo and possibly authentic clothing range.
All scenery around Davos was stunning though and I don't think you'd be disappointed with any of these roads. Every village around here is very pretty too. They all look very wild west.
Heading south, Passo del Bernina is fantastic. Fast sweeping bends on immaculate surfaces. Shortly after the pass we turned north east into Italy and the Livigno valley. The rest of the road south from Passo del Bernina looked great but we wanted to move into Italy and Catherine was very insistent that the Italian men would be getting impatient without her. Not one to disappoint, I delivered her safely into her intended new homeland.
Great roads and we called it a day in Livigno. It's a tax-free heaven around here! Unleaded was 85 cents a litre as opposed to around 1.25 euros in the neighbouring countries. The downside is that everyone overfills so there's diesel all over the roads in and out. Go very careful in the wet.
There is a campsite in the centre of the village that looks like a dodgy RV park but tucked behind the super behemouths is a small tent plot full of mountain bikers. Never realised it was a big biking spot but I'll have to check this out when we return home. Lots of different nationalities drive from far and wide to ride these mountains. We are the only Brits here but there's lots of eastern Europeans. All very friendly, as you'd expect from a mountain biking crowd, and all happy to join us in talking bollocks for the night. There are apparently ski lift facilities to the peaks although the big group of Czechs next to us say the singletrack climbs are good riding too.
The facilities here are spotless. I've honestly stayed in hotels with worst. Showers are 1 euro for 3 mins. Better be good but I'll report back tomorrow.
Catherine cooked another superb tea and we enjoyed our excellent duty free wine from the local store. For 4 or 5 quid you can get some seriously good wine. For 7 quid you can get a litre of Gordons. If you're really posh, you can get 2 litres of wine in a basket for a tenner! I didn't keep close tabs on Catherine but if the bike feels one or two litres heavier tomorrow, there'll be a gin amnesty.
148 miles
Saturday 11 July 2009
A sad sight
Probably not the best thing to mention while we're out here on a biking trip but we've just seen a fatal bike crash on Julierpass. Some Swiss guy roared past us on a blind hairpin. We then see him again 5 minutes later wedged underneath a car near the pass.
Catherine comforted the car driver while everything was been covered up then we rode very, very sedately to the next cafe which is where we are at the mo.
It was an awful sight and very sobering.
Thoughts go out to family, friends, and the poor lass driving the car who's got to live with this for the rest of her life.
Catherine comforted the car driver while everything was been covered up then we rode very, very sedately to the next cafe which is where we are at the mo.
It was an awful sight and very sobering.
Thoughts go out to family, friends, and the poor lass driving the car who's got to live with this for the rest of her life.
Day 7 Andermatt to Lantsch/Lenz
Freezing cold and heavy rain overnight. Up at 7 for another superb Swiss campsite shower then walked into town to pick up a few bits.
Our planned 9am start was nearly 2 hours late but worth the wait. Rode a loop west of Andermatt taking in St Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Grimselpass (again!) and Sustenpass. All superb but didn't realise until it was too late that St Gotthardpass has an old and a new road. We rode up the superb new road but inadvertently came down the old. Scenic and quiet but not a patch on the new one. For a start, there's lots of cobblestones and very little silky smooth fast tarmac. The cows were quite amusing though - hanging off rock faces and ringing their little bells. Definitely won't make that mistake again!
Pulled over in Andermatt and got chatting to some Italian chaps about routes east. Catherine didn't find the language barrier a problem and used the age old method of going doughy eyed, nodding and laughing loudly at everything they said. She's not seen a comb or makeup all week so despite her best efforts she had about as much chance as I did with the two young French lesbians in the tent next to mine the previous night.
Oberalppass good but not as good as i thought it would be from reading up on the routes around here.
Started scraping stand for first time today. Also first near miss dropping bike at standstill. Stopped near a junction and bike started leaning too far to right. Catherine didn't notice but thankfully she moved over to left at exactly the right time to get a better view of some cyclist having a wee at ride of road.
Hoofed it past a Ducati 996 at full bore on Nufenenpass. Now that's a great road!
The 19 from Disentis to Ilanz doesn't look special on the map and Catherine's new Italian pin-up said it was nothing. We actually thought it was quite entertaining so were pleasantly surprised.
Got talking to some Swiss chap at a fuel stop. Don't think i'm getting old or anything but he was riding a Harley that actually looked kinda ok. All black, quite 'modern' looking (for a Harley). Belt drive so obviously part of their 'sporty' range. He then told me it weighed 250kg! What on earth do they carve those things from?
Overtook a little French looking 3 wheeled tractor thing on way to campsite. The driver started shaking his fist at us as we passed. Judging by speed he was going I think we woke him up.
Loads of cows in valley near campsite. In true Swiss fashion every one of them had a cowbell. They were restless and noisy during night. We actually hoped for rain just so they'd lie down and shut up.
Picked up some muesli from shop. it's quite funny to hold the packet in front of your face then move it away and the view doesn't change!
Ate dinner in restaurant by campsite tonight. It looked like cafe food - spam (although Catherine assured me it wasn't), fried egg, Mattersons sausage salad etc. Bottle of house wine, beers, coffee and apple strudle. Bill came to best part of 50 quid! For some reason we both honestly thought it was delicious and agreed it was worth every penny! I think we've been away from Yorkshire too long!
172 miles
Our planned 9am start was nearly 2 hours late but worth the wait. Rode a loop west of Andermatt taking in St Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Grimselpass (again!) and Sustenpass. All superb but didn't realise until it was too late that St Gotthardpass has an old and a new road. We rode up the superb new road but inadvertently came down the old. Scenic and quiet but not a patch on the new one. For a start, there's lots of cobblestones and very little silky smooth fast tarmac. The cows were quite amusing though - hanging off rock faces and ringing their little bells. Definitely won't make that mistake again!
Pulled over in Andermatt and got chatting to some Italian chaps about routes east. Catherine didn't find the language barrier a problem and used the age old method of going doughy eyed, nodding and laughing loudly at everything they said. She's not seen a comb or makeup all week so despite her best efforts she had about as much chance as I did with the two young French lesbians in the tent next to mine the previous night.
Oberalppass good but not as good as i thought it would be from reading up on the routes around here.
Started scraping stand for first time today. Also first near miss dropping bike at standstill. Stopped near a junction and bike started leaning too far to right. Catherine didn't notice but thankfully she moved over to left at exactly the right time to get a better view of some cyclist having a wee at ride of road.
Hoofed it past a Ducati 996 at full bore on Nufenenpass. Now that's a great road!
The 19 from Disentis to Ilanz doesn't look special on the map and Catherine's new Italian pin-up said it was nothing. We actually thought it was quite entertaining so were pleasantly surprised.
Got talking to some Swiss chap at a fuel stop. Don't think i'm getting old or anything but he was riding a Harley that actually looked kinda ok. All black, quite 'modern' looking (for a Harley). Belt drive so obviously part of their 'sporty' range. He then told me it weighed 250kg! What on earth do they carve those things from?
Overtook a little French looking 3 wheeled tractor thing on way to campsite. The driver started shaking his fist at us as we passed. Judging by speed he was going I think we woke him up.
Loads of cows in valley near campsite. In true Swiss fashion every one of them had a cowbell. They were restless and noisy during night. We actually hoped for rain just so they'd lie down and shut up.
Picked up some muesli from shop. it's quite funny to hold the packet in front of your face then move it away and the view doesn't change!
Ate dinner in restaurant by campsite tonight. It looked like cafe food - spam (although Catherine assured me it wasn't), fried egg, Mattersons sausage salad etc. Bottle of house wine, beers, coffee and apple strudle. Bill came to best part of 50 quid! For some reason we both honestly thought it was delicious and agreed it was worth every penny! I think we've been away from Yorkshire too long!
172 miles
Day 6 Grindelwald to Andermatt
Catherine popped her Alpine pass cherry today with a superb run up Grimselpass! If you're gonna do it, you really should do it in style!
Late start to be honest and a very short run. 2.30pm kinda late but we had to wash and dry our clothes so we are excused.
I came back from an early shower to find Catherine shouting at my empty tent trying to wake me and tell me the Eiger was clear. The neighbours thought she'd gone mental. I think they're onto something.
Showers were superb. It's two days in a row we've had showers that could be turned up too hot AND too powerful. I can't even do that at home!
Left Grindelwald and headed south of Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Bit of a sight seeing detour but very pretty. 'Valley of waterfalls'. Ticked the box then turned back north to Interlaken. Picked up the road north of Brienzersee and went east to Meningen. Brienzersee is very similar to Thunersee but the road around is lower and slower. Plenty of opportunities to stop by the lake for coffee and photos though.
Dropped south and rode up Grimselpass. This is proper Alpine heartland. Absolutely stunning stuff. Great fast roads that quickly gain height and lead to nice hairpins. Mountains and glaciers all around. Bike was sliding around on some of the bends but Catherine believed me when i said that's perfectly safe and normal. To be honest it's all that overbanding stuff they paint on the roads. Nasty when cold or wet and sometimes unavoidable. She enjoyed the whole roller coaster ride though, and will continue to do so apparently providing I don't kill her or look like I'm trying to.
Stopped at top for commemorative photos and to get a few extra layers on. it's cold and exposed up here and dropped to 7 degrees at top. Shame the pillion grips aren't heated as well, isn't it sis?
At Grimselpass there's a little scenic detour to Oberaarsee. It's a dead end trip into a glacial valley along a one way at a time road. Glaciers, lake, dam. Check! Traffic lights go green once an hour for 10 mins at either end and we timed our arrival perfectly to get in, get photos, get out. It's definitely worth doing if you've travelled this far. Catherine also caught her first sighting of a marmot - those big mountain guinea pig things. She was very excited after I'd talked about these mythical critters then a bit upset to see one squashed in the road.
From Grimselpass there's an unrestricted view of Furkapass just up the road. We rode down to Gletsch then straight up Furkapass. Even higher and colder than Grimselpass but mint riding.
We reached Andermatt at 6.30 and called it a day. Nothing to eat since breakfast and we were getting past it. Great day with cracking weather all day though. Lots of sun and no rain. It sure rained overnight mind!
Andermatt looks a bit ropey in summer while construction work takes place but there's a campsite as you come into town so we risked it purely for convenience. Knocked up a quick meal using dry food and leftovers then went next door for some beers.
Some things i've learned today:
1. Got chatting to a biker from Jerusalem this morning. He got flashed by speed camera in Switzerland last year. Speeding fine was waiting for him when he got home. They hate speeding in Switzerland and they'll chase you wherever you live.
2. The Coop in Andermatt closes at 6.30. There's not much else in the town!
3. Every road around Andermatt is superb.
4. Buy a vignette in Switzerland. Motorways are sometimes unavoidable, at least without major hassle, and often they put you on a short stretch just to link up two other roads.
5. Loads of biker friendly hotels in Andermatt all with free bike parking. Bikes are called 'toffs' here and bikers 'toffers'.
6 Losing things runs in the family. It's just that Catherine is best at it.
96 miles
Late start to be honest and a very short run. 2.30pm kinda late but we had to wash and dry our clothes so we are excused.
I came back from an early shower to find Catherine shouting at my empty tent trying to wake me and tell me the Eiger was clear. The neighbours thought she'd gone mental. I think they're onto something.
Showers were superb. It's two days in a row we've had showers that could be turned up too hot AND too powerful. I can't even do that at home!
Left Grindelwald and headed south of Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Bit of a sight seeing detour but very pretty. 'Valley of waterfalls'. Ticked the box then turned back north to Interlaken. Picked up the road north of Brienzersee and went east to Meningen. Brienzersee is very similar to Thunersee but the road around is lower and slower. Plenty of opportunities to stop by the lake for coffee and photos though.
Dropped south and rode up Grimselpass. This is proper Alpine heartland. Absolutely stunning stuff. Great fast roads that quickly gain height and lead to nice hairpins. Mountains and glaciers all around. Bike was sliding around on some of the bends but Catherine believed me when i said that's perfectly safe and normal. To be honest it's all that overbanding stuff they paint on the roads. Nasty when cold or wet and sometimes unavoidable. She enjoyed the whole roller coaster ride though, and will continue to do so apparently providing I don't kill her or look like I'm trying to.
Stopped at top for commemorative photos and to get a few extra layers on. it's cold and exposed up here and dropped to 7 degrees at top. Shame the pillion grips aren't heated as well, isn't it sis?
At Grimselpass there's a little scenic detour to Oberaarsee. It's a dead end trip into a glacial valley along a one way at a time road. Glaciers, lake, dam. Check! Traffic lights go green once an hour for 10 mins at either end and we timed our arrival perfectly to get in, get photos, get out. It's definitely worth doing if you've travelled this far. Catherine also caught her first sighting of a marmot - those big mountain guinea pig things. She was very excited after I'd talked about these mythical critters then a bit upset to see one squashed in the road.
From Grimselpass there's an unrestricted view of Furkapass just up the road. We rode down to Gletsch then straight up Furkapass. Even higher and colder than Grimselpass but mint riding.
We reached Andermatt at 6.30 and called it a day. Nothing to eat since breakfast and we were getting past it. Great day with cracking weather all day though. Lots of sun and no rain. It sure rained overnight mind!
Andermatt looks a bit ropey in summer while construction work takes place but there's a campsite as you come into town so we risked it purely for convenience. Knocked up a quick meal using dry food and leftovers then went next door for some beers.
Some things i've learned today:
1. Got chatting to a biker from Jerusalem this morning. He got flashed by speed camera in Switzerland last year. Speeding fine was waiting for him when he got home. They hate speeding in Switzerland and they'll chase you wherever you live.
2. The Coop in Andermatt closes at 6.30. There's not much else in the town!
3. Every road around Andermatt is superb.
4. Buy a vignette in Switzerland. Motorways are sometimes unavoidable, at least without major hassle, and often they put you on a short stretch just to link up two other roads.
5. Loads of biker friendly hotels in Andermatt all with free bike parking. Bikes are called 'toffs' here and bikers 'toffers'.
6 Losing things runs in the family. It's just that Catherine is best at it.
96 miles
Thursday 9 July 2009
TNF
Day 5 Titisee to Grindelwald
First off, Catherine says i should apologise and correct yesterday's post - Titisee isn't the first rude placename we've seen. There were one or two others in Germany (one actually, answers on a postcard please) and then today we passed somewhere near Bern that I won't mention because I know the folks back home are listening in. Hello all!
We left Titisee south on D500. Said it before and I'll say it again - great road, make sure you put it on the list. Next time you're in Europe and need to get from 'up north' to 'down south' I thoroughly recommend it. In fact we both insist on it.
Turned west at Waldshut and followed the Rhein to Rheinfelden. It's a dull main road but sometimes needs must and we needed to cross a border.
Stopped at a cool little place called Laufenbourg half way. Very, very oldy worldy and it has a footbridge over the Rhein. Germany one side, Switzerland the other. Actually you can drive over but it looks like you need to ask nicely, move some traffic cones and pay a small toll. We strolled back and forth between countries for a while (just because we could) and stopped for a coffee on the German side. We really wanted a coffee, a strawberry beer and some black forest gateaux but we somehow ended up with two coffees and some ice cream. In the words of Roy Walker 'it's good, but it's not right'!
Bought a vignette at the Swiss border to try make good time on the Swiss motorways. Not that you really can. The speed limits are pathetic and they're keen as mustard on policing them. We had an uneventful but relatively speedy run to Thun then rode the northern road from Thun to Interlaken. It looks and feels very Italian but it's slower riding than Italy. Definitely worth a bimble though - lake Thunersee is absolutely gorgeous and once the road gains some height it's superb.
Turned south at Interlaken and rode to Grindelwald. Tonight we are camping in the shadow of the Eiger. It's literally just outside the tents looming over us. It's not every day you can wake up and be greeted by such a sight. We're in a valley with peaks all around us but the Eiger is magnificent. There's quite a lot of cloud cover this evening so we can't see the full face yet. The view last cleared completely at the weekend and there's not much hope locally for the clouds to clear for another few days.
We'll be leaving in the morning so I guess we'll keep fingers crossed for clear weather tomorrow.
On the subject of weather, we're still chasing the sun but not always successfully. Someone in Germany told us yesterday that the weather in the Black Forest has been unusually bad recently but it's normally excellent at this time of year. A Brit that we've just met at this campsite has travelled up through France after visiting his French wife's parents and it's pretty much the same all over Europe at the moment. It was cracking as we came down into Switzerland yesterday but the rain caught us eventually. Might need to look at some weather forecasts before planning our next move. We take some comfort in reports from home of biblical rain storms so I think we're doing pretty good really!
Catherine cooked up a killer veg rice for tea. It nearly did actually, given the amount of chilis she put in it but it was excellent none the less!
Yes folks, she can cook. Eligible bachelors take note!
151 miles
We left Titisee south on D500. Said it before and I'll say it again - great road, make sure you put it on the list. Next time you're in Europe and need to get from 'up north' to 'down south' I thoroughly recommend it. In fact we both insist on it.
Turned west at Waldshut and followed the Rhein to Rheinfelden. It's a dull main road but sometimes needs must and we needed to cross a border.
Stopped at a cool little place called Laufenbourg half way. Very, very oldy worldy and it has a footbridge over the Rhein. Germany one side, Switzerland the other. Actually you can drive over but it looks like you need to ask nicely, move some traffic cones and pay a small toll. We strolled back and forth between countries for a while (just because we could) and stopped for a coffee on the German side. We really wanted a coffee, a strawberry beer and some black forest gateaux but we somehow ended up with two coffees and some ice cream. In the words of Roy Walker 'it's good, but it's not right'!
Bought a vignette at the Swiss border to try make good time on the Swiss motorways. Not that you really can. The speed limits are pathetic and they're keen as mustard on policing them. We had an uneventful but relatively speedy run to Thun then rode the northern road from Thun to Interlaken. It looks and feels very Italian but it's slower riding than Italy. Definitely worth a bimble though - lake Thunersee is absolutely gorgeous and once the road gains some height it's superb.
Turned south at Interlaken and rode to Grindelwald. Tonight we are camping in the shadow of the Eiger. It's literally just outside the tents looming over us. It's not every day you can wake up and be greeted by such a sight. We're in a valley with peaks all around us but the Eiger is magnificent. There's quite a lot of cloud cover this evening so we can't see the full face yet. The view last cleared completely at the weekend and there's not much hope locally for the clouds to clear for another few days.
We'll be leaving in the morning so I guess we'll keep fingers crossed for clear weather tomorrow.
On the subject of weather, we're still chasing the sun but not always successfully. Someone in Germany told us yesterday that the weather in the Black Forest has been unusually bad recently but it's normally excellent at this time of year. A Brit that we've just met at this campsite has travelled up through France after visiting his French wife's parents and it's pretty much the same all over Europe at the moment. It was cracking as we came down into Switzerland yesterday but the rain caught us eventually. Might need to look at some weather forecasts before planning our next move. We take some comfort in reports from home of biblical rain storms so I think we're doing pretty good really!
Catherine cooked up a killer veg rice for tea. It nearly did actually, given the amount of chilis she put in it but it was excellent none the less!
Yes folks, she can cook. Eligible bachelors take note!
151 miles
Tuesday 7 July 2009
Day 4 Lauterbourg to Titisee
Gentle day today, just 148m. Bit of a lie in then one of our German neighbours invited over to his motorhome to sit and have breakfast. He recommended the D500 (known locally as the German Route 66 apparently) which we'd already planned to do anyway. He told us that Freiburg is lovely and we should try Landjaeger sausage while we're there. Germanys finest sausage according to our host and the best butcher to get it from is near Glottertal. Before we left he walked over and gave us a disposable BBQ for our travels which was jolly decent of him. We're just sat cooking tea on it now!
We crossed the border back into Germany on a little roll on roll off car ferry across the Rhein. Very civilised and a completely free service.
Picked up the Black Forest High Road (D500 from Baden-Baden south to Freudenstadt). It's a magnificent piece of road.
Found this little dry bobsleigh slope and paid a few euros for a go. They obviously recognized us as pro when we turned up in full leathers and they were right. Once we'd confirmed the sleigh couldn't leave the track we did the whole run without touching the brakes. They left a massive gap between us and the sleigh in front and behind for everyone's safety.
D294 and D500 south to Titisee - our first rude place name this trip!
Had some rain and cold weather today. If we don't get super hot weather tomorrow we're gonna hoof it down to the Italian lakes or south of France. We're trés cosmopolitan you know.
Catherine's found some wild strawberries next to her tent. Says they go lovely with her 2 euro bottle of wine! It would appear that yesterday's wine tasting taught her nothing. Honestly, you can take the girl out of Hull but...
148 miles
We crossed the border back into Germany on a little roll on roll off car ferry across the Rhein. Very civilised and a completely free service.
Picked up the Black Forest High Road (D500 from Baden-Baden south to Freudenstadt). It's a magnificent piece of road.
Found this little dry bobsleigh slope and paid a few euros for a go. They obviously recognized us as pro when we turned up in full leathers and they were right. Once we'd confirmed the sleigh couldn't leave the track we did the whole run without touching the brakes. They left a massive gap between us and the sleigh in front and behind for everyone's safety.
D294 and D500 south to Titisee - our first rude place name this trip!
Had some rain and cold weather today. If we don't get super hot weather tomorrow we're gonna hoof it down to the Italian lakes or south of France. We're trés cosmopolitan you know.
Catherine's found some wild strawberries next to her tent. Says they go lovely with her 2 euro bottle of wine! It would appear that yesterday's wine tasting taught her nothing. Honestly, you can take the girl out of Hull but...
148 miles
Day 3 Koblenz to Lauterbourg
Don't quote me on today's finishing post - the map's torn across the town name so i can't be sure what it's supposed to say. I think it's Lauterbourg. We finished up in France camping near the Rhein. We're on way down to Black Forest tomorrow. In fact we're pretty much at the start of the 'Black Forest High Road'. Just discovered we're one day too late to catch the campsites resident stand up comedian, which is a shame.
Germany is proving to be a very pleasant surprise. We were originally thinking of heading south from Koblenz along the Rhein but someone on ferry recommended following the Mozel for great roads. They weren't wrong. Lovely fast sweeping bends, picture postcard scenes with river one side and endless vinyards on the other.
And by golly, we're loving all things German. So far we've seen great roads and incredibly friendly locals who speak English better than most of the French, Spanish and Italians I've ever met.
Catherine is doing great to remember German from her school days 15 years ago (are you really THAT old sis!) and i'm back on form with my pigeon French. It doesn't excuse her complete inability to put tents up, get up early or make breakfast though.
Stopped at a wine cellar on the Mozel so Catherine could down a few samples for breakfast and we picked up a bottle of her favourite for tea.
Roads to note are 49 to Alf and 48 to Wissembourg. Both are mint. Proper Playstation stuff.
Front wheel is constantly lifting with all the weight on the bike. Quite amusing on the twisties but scary as from a standing start. If I wasn't so pathetic at wheelies it would be cool but I'm a complete idiot so it just amuses/scares all other drivers and pedestrians. Catherine is copying my movements on the bike so when we're gunning it out of bends we're both diving forward like a pair of retarded nodding dogs. it's all part of the fun though!
219 miles
Germany is proving to be a very pleasant surprise. We were originally thinking of heading south from Koblenz along the Rhein but someone on ferry recommended following the Mozel for great roads. They weren't wrong. Lovely fast sweeping bends, picture postcard scenes with river one side and endless vinyards on the other.
And by golly, we're loving all things German. So far we've seen great roads and incredibly friendly locals who speak English better than most of the French, Spanish and Italians I've ever met.
Catherine is doing great to remember German from her school days 15 years ago (are you really THAT old sis!) and i'm back on form with my pigeon French. It doesn't excuse her complete inability to put tents up, get up early or make breakfast though.
Stopped at a wine cellar on the Mozel so Catherine could down a few samples for breakfast and we picked up a bottle of her favourite for tea.
Roads to note are 49 to Alf and 48 to Wissembourg. Both are mint. Proper Playstation stuff.
Front wheel is constantly lifting with all the weight on the bike. Quite amusing on the twisties but scary as from a standing start. If I wasn't so pathetic at wheelies it would be cool but I'm a complete idiot so it just amuses/scares all other drivers and pedestrians. Catherine is copying my movements on the bike so when we're gunning it out of bends we're both diving forward like a pair of retarded nodding dogs. it's all part of the fun though!
219 miles
Sunday 5 July 2009
Day 2 Zeebrugge to Koblenz
I know we've mocked but full credit to my sis - she's definitely got her biking legs. I only found out yesterday that she's never been on a motorbike before! This obviously raised concerns before a 3000 mile baptism of fire, but she's a natural. When I turned up on the bike she didn't think 'the big old lump would be that quick'. With hindsight I don't know if she meant the bike or me. All is cool though and come rain or shine, motorways or hairpins, she appears completely at ease. There's even thoughts of doing the bike test herself. It was also a well observed and valid point that 'car drivers don't go over and talk bollocks to each other like that'! Yep, welcome to biking and welcome to Europe.
Textbook start to the holiday this morning. Monster breakfast, followed by banter and route swapping down in the car deck, then start the engines, sound the horns and hit the motorways. Hoofed it out of Belgium ASAP and into Germany and 'The Ring'.
Nurbergring - what a complete riot. Wasn't gonna risk anything on day 1 of the trip but we still had big laughs just watching the action. Pulled into one of the many viewing areas and enjoyed an hour or so of some of the world's finest (and many of the not so finest) cars, bikes and vans thrashing round the track. Highlight for me was some loon having an absolute blast in an old Lotus Carlton repeatedly coming back round and overtaking pretty much everything in his path. Usually sideways but once or twice he threw in a little unplanned 360.
The rain comes quickly round these parts and when it does it comes heavy. Once it looked like settling in we headed east to Koblenz. Only a short journey but enough to clear the bad weather.
Found an absolute gem of a campsite. There's no great facilities and it's not particularly cheap but it's full of Dutch honeys squeezing into little tents together and enjoying the great outdoors. Catherine pitched her tent right between mine and our friendly neighbours so i can't go sneaking over to borrow a cup of sugar.
Strangely enough there's no roadsigns to it but for future reference it's the one slapbang where the Rhein and the Mozel rivers fork.
271 miles
Textbook start to the holiday this morning. Monster breakfast, followed by banter and route swapping down in the car deck, then start the engines, sound the horns and hit the motorways. Hoofed it out of Belgium ASAP and into Germany and 'The Ring'.
Nurbergring - what a complete riot. Wasn't gonna risk anything on day 1 of the trip but we still had big laughs just watching the action. Pulled into one of the many viewing areas and enjoyed an hour or so of some of the world's finest (and many of the not so finest) cars, bikes and vans thrashing round the track. Highlight for me was some loon having an absolute blast in an old Lotus Carlton repeatedly coming back round and overtaking pretty much everything in his path. Usually sideways but once or twice he threw in a little unplanned 360.
The rain comes quickly round these parts and when it does it comes heavy. Once it looked like settling in we headed east to Koblenz. Only a short journey but enough to clear the bad weather.
Found an absolute gem of a campsite. There's no great facilities and it's not particularly cheap but it's full of Dutch honeys squeezing into little tents together and enjoying the great outdoors. Catherine pitched her tent right between mine and our friendly neighbours so i can't go sneaking over to borrow a cup of sugar.
Strangely enough there's no roadsigns to it but for future reference it's the one slapbang where the Rhein and the Mozel rivers fork.
271 miles
Saturday 4 July 2009
Day 1 We have lift off!
Dunno how but we actually made the ferry! Not helped by Catherine leaving her gloves at home then leaving her helmet in Hein Gericke. Catherine, scatty? Get outta here!
I'm just sat in the bar waiting for her to do her hair or something then we're gonna hit the restaurant to fill up on rollmop herring. Get in!
I'm just sat in the bar waiting for her to do her hair or something then we're gonna hit the restaurant to fill up on rollmop herring. Get in!
Tuesday 23 June 2009
Replacement passport
Right, you can all take back everything you ever said about Catherine. Her replacement passport has safely arrived with weeks to spare. I told you she wasn't that daft. With our resident journo onboard you can expect the finest daily write ups beamed back straight from the field.
All guaranteed to be 100% Daily Mail quality or your money back.
All guaranteed to be 100% Daily Mail quality or your money back.
Sunday 7 June 2009
Jollies booked!
Heard some great tales of biking in Germany over the years but I've never ridden there. We're thinking of riding down into Italy through Germany. The Black Forest looks good then maybe the Italian Lakes and/or the Dolomites. Nurbergring has been marked on map, but that’s one for the end of the holiday rather than the start. We might give it a blast but it depends which way we head back home.
Found some useful sites with downloadable biking maps. The third one’s a bit patchy, but the first two are great:
http://85.255.193.172/Tourism/OnlineUEMmaps/tabid/55/Default.aspx
http://www.road-concept.eu/uebersicht-msd
Found some useful sites with downloadable biking maps. The third one’s a bit patchy, but the first two are great:
http://85.255.193.172/Tourism/OnlineUEMmaps/tabid/55/Default.aspx
http://www.road-concept.eu/uebersicht-msd
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