61 miles today
2,561 miles in total
Monday 7 July 2014
Sunday 6 July 2014
Day 16 - Thionville to Zebrugge
Toasty warm night and a dry morning but clouding over, which presented us with a dilemma. Do we wander into town before or after packing the bike? Hmm, breakfast or dry luggage?
My head doesn't work first thing in a morning so reaching a decision was impossible and we compromised. We walked across the park for milk and croissants, then loaded the bike over breakfast. I need food the minute i wake up and Louby has the same urgency for a cup of tea.
Cravings suitably satisfied, courtesy of delicious almond croissant triangles from the bakery next to the petite casino, we walked back into town leaving a fully loaded bike pointing in the right direction and ready to roll.
Louby has been a good girl this holiday and deserves a treat, so we called into a couple of little shops that caught our eye last night. First stop was a pretty little frock shop, where we relieved them of one pretty little frock that was sat in the window display.
It was then on to the lingerie shop where Louby was treated to some fine French lingerie, retrieved from rows of carefully sorted and labelled wooden drawers by an eager assistant.
Bags in hand, we walked back to the site. If we weren't saving ourselves for the ferry then we could have been easily tempted by some of the street food on offer along the high street. The smell pulled you in long before you could see it, but we've got a P&O banquet ahead of us so passed up on the opportunity.
We said goodbye to the cheery people running the site and hit the road in far from perfect weather.
We broke the monotonous but necessary journey with a few stops, including one to layer up and plug in Louby's heated vest and another to polish off the remaining breakfast croissants over some extortionate service station coffee.
We had just enough time to call into Brugge before boarding the ferry, although there were police cordons around the main square (presumably for the football) so it took far longer than expected to find somewhere to dump the bike. Still, we explored some pretty little cobbled side streets and enjoyed our wander.
We boarded the ferry in what we thought was good time, but the departure was 45 minutes earlier than listed on our tickets so we probably cut it really fine.
After two weeks camping, the simple luxuries of a steaming hot shower, clean fluffy towels and a proper mattress is beyond measure. We peeled off our leathers, had a long hot shower, then changed into the freshest of our well travelled clothes. We then stopped for a quick drink in the bar before heading down to annihilate the buffet.
Rest assured that we're safely on the ferry and heading home. See you all soon!
230 miles
My head doesn't work first thing in a morning so reaching a decision was impossible and we compromised. We walked across the park for milk and croissants, then loaded the bike over breakfast. I need food the minute i wake up and Louby has the same urgency for a cup of tea.
Cravings suitably satisfied, courtesy of delicious almond croissant triangles from the bakery next to the petite casino, we walked back into town leaving a fully loaded bike pointing in the right direction and ready to roll.
Louby has been a good girl this holiday and deserves a treat, so we called into a couple of little shops that caught our eye last night. First stop was a pretty little frock shop, where we relieved them of one pretty little frock that was sat in the window display.
It was then on to the lingerie shop where Louby was treated to some fine French lingerie, retrieved from rows of carefully sorted and labelled wooden drawers by an eager assistant.
Bags in hand, we walked back to the site. If we weren't saving ourselves for the ferry then we could have been easily tempted by some of the street food on offer along the high street. The smell pulled you in long before you could see it, but we've got a P&O banquet ahead of us so passed up on the opportunity.
We said goodbye to the cheery people running the site and hit the road in far from perfect weather.
We broke the monotonous but necessary journey with a few stops, including one to layer up and plug in Louby's heated vest and another to polish off the remaining breakfast croissants over some extortionate service station coffee.
We had just enough time to call into Brugge before boarding the ferry, although there were police cordons around the main square (presumably for the football) so it took far longer than expected to find somewhere to dump the bike. Still, we explored some pretty little cobbled side streets and enjoyed our wander.
We boarded the ferry in what we thought was good time, but the departure was 45 minutes earlier than listed on our tickets so we probably cut it really fine.
After two weeks camping, the simple luxuries of a steaming hot shower, clean fluffy towels and a proper mattress is beyond measure. We peeled off our leathers, had a long hot shower, then changed into the freshest of our well travelled clothes. We then stopped for a quick drink in the bar before heading down to annihilate the buffet.
Rest assured that we're safely on the ferry and heading home. See you all soon!
230 miles
Saturday 5 July 2014
Day 15 - Doucier to Thionville
Woken at the crack of dawn by a chorus of bloody crows. They set off the cows, who set off dogs, one of which sounded like a bull, who set off the hens and chickens, then the blackbirds. Eventually the cockerels did their job and joined in the commotion.
The temperature was starting to get a bit silly, despite the cloud cover, so we packed away and hit the road.
A long dull ride was required today on mostly unmemorable roads.
We broke it up with a pit stop in Épinal. I've often ridden past it but never visited. We pulled into the main square in the town centre and enjoyed a wonderful three course menu de jour. Louby had a couple of glasses of rosé, i had an espresso and several bottles of water. The temperature was now 34 degrees and it felt every bit of it.
Continued on to Thionville where we arrived at the little cheap and cheerful municipal site in the centre about 5pm. Just in time for the bloody football. France vs Germany.
We walked along the river into town. The riverbank was busy with people sat out watching the footy under temporary bars. The town centre was even busier. There's several squares and most of the bars have outside seating. We explored the streets, stopping at several bars to enjoy a drink in the evening sun. It was a lively place. We liked it.
Walked back along the river towards to campsite. Having yet again failed to stock up on provisions we needed food. Nothing fancy - we'd already had a three course feast in Épinal although that was hours ago and a distant memory.
We stopped by the river and made good use of the fast food stalls. Merguez hot dogs and a bag of chips hit the spot. Washed down with a beer and a glass of wine. We sat out by the river and caught every last little bit of evening sun before calling it a day.
Nothing memorable about the riding today but we've enjoyed both Épinal and Thionville. There's another similar day of it tomorrow before we board the ferry and finally return home.
236 miles
The temperature was starting to get a bit silly, despite the cloud cover, so we packed away and hit the road.
A long dull ride was required today on mostly unmemorable roads.
We broke it up with a pit stop in Épinal. I've often ridden past it but never visited. We pulled into the main square in the town centre and enjoyed a wonderful three course menu de jour. Louby had a couple of glasses of rosé, i had an espresso and several bottles of water. The temperature was now 34 degrees and it felt every bit of it.
Continued on to Thionville where we arrived at the little cheap and cheerful municipal site in the centre about 5pm. Just in time for the bloody football. France vs Germany.
We walked along the river into town. The riverbank was busy with people sat out watching the footy under temporary bars. The town centre was even busier. There's several squares and most of the bars have outside seating. We explored the streets, stopping at several bars to enjoy a drink in the evening sun. It was a lively place. We liked it.
Walked back along the river towards to campsite. Having yet again failed to stock up on provisions we needed food. Nothing fancy - we'd already had a three course feast in Épinal although that was hours ago and a distant memory.
We stopped by the river and made good use of the fast food stalls. Merguez hot dogs and a bag of chips hit the spot. Washed down with a beer and a glass of wine. We sat out by the river and caught every last little bit of evening sun before calling it a day.
Nothing memorable about the riding today but we've enjoyed both Épinal and Thionville. There's another similar day of it tomorrow before we board the ferry and finally return home.
236 miles
Day 14 - Chamonix to Doucier
We survived the cold night and were rewarded with blazing sunshine this morning. We took a walk to the bakery and picked up the most amazing almond croissants and a custard croissant.
Got chatting to our neighbours, Ali and his girlfriend, who are training for an ironman triathlon. He is a triathlon trainer by profession, she's never run a marathon before. They figured training at altitude would be a benefit. Good luck to them for the big event in September. They're leaving today to visit his sister in Zurich and welcome her imminently due baby into the world.
I popped into town on the bike to withdraw some cash and returned to find Loobs sparked out in her bikini and the packing looking somewhat incomplete.
Eventually hit the road and enjoyed the baking tarmac. The road west, down from Chamonix is utterly amazing. When you're blessed with weather like this, it's perfect. There's always a stench of cooking brakes from the steady stream HGVs that use this road to cross into France. We hoofed it past everything down the mountain and picked up the route des grandes alps at flumet.
We stuck with the RDGA all the way to thonon on the shore of lake Geneva. I've never known weather like this around here and we made the most of it, refusing to stop until Thonon so we could enjoy the entire stretch with a warm engine and hot sticky tyres.
Deano will fully appreciate the appeal of the last stretch of the RDGA to thonon in 30+ degree heat and a dry, clear road. Biking nirvana.
We stopped in Geneva for photos by the fountain. Louby loved the place and failed to understand my dislike of it. I still rode with eyes in the back of my head and a potty mouth. We escaped unharmed.
Filled the tank with cheap fuel by the border then road through Gex towards Doucier in the Jura. The only way i could drag Louby away from Chamonix this morning was on the promise of water and a beach so she could soak up more sun.
I knew just the place, thanks to the Tigers. I could have a play on the amazing roads past Gex, we'd be the perfect distance for our homeward journey, and Louby could lay on a beach by lac du chalain.
We checked into the campsite and headed straight for the beach, calling into the shop for some cold beers and a big bag of crisps.
I had a swim while Loobs worshipped the evening sun, before we hit the showers and then the bar.
Got talking to a couple of teenage sisters from Devon. They were here with their parents, who later joined us and we chatted over a drink on the terrace before we headed to the restaurant. We'd missed the shop, which had long since closed and we were out of all but the most basic and unappealing emergency provisions.
It was too late for the full menu in the restaurant. After 9.30pm it's pizza only, and they were disappointing efforts. We washed them down with a carafe of rose, which made the pizzas and the loud and lairy British family on the next table, slightly more bearable.
Returned to the tent feeling bloated, full of overloaded but nondescript pizza. We were spoiled in St Moritz and i don't think any other pizza can ever compete. It's a shame. I don't eat a lot of pizza so when i do, I want it to be exceptional.
Woke during the night to the sound of rain on the tent. Quickly pulled on the nearest pair of pants (I think they were mine) then leapt out to save the towels on the washing line. It never came to anything and it was dry but a little overcast in the morning.
PS Sparky - get it right. They were yoga pants and flip flops.
181 miles
Got chatting to our neighbours, Ali and his girlfriend, who are training for an ironman triathlon. He is a triathlon trainer by profession, she's never run a marathon before. They figured training at altitude would be a benefit. Good luck to them for the big event in September. They're leaving today to visit his sister in Zurich and welcome her imminently due baby into the world.
I popped into town on the bike to withdraw some cash and returned to find Loobs sparked out in her bikini and the packing looking somewhat incomplete.
Eventually hit the road and enjoyed the baking tarmac. The road west, down from Chamonix is utterly amazing. When you're blessed with weather like this, it's perfect. There's always a stench of cooking brakes from the steady stream HGVs that use this road to cross into France. We hoofed it past everything down the mountain and picked up the route des grandes alps at flumet.
We stuck with the RDGA all the way to thonon on the shore of lake Geneva. I've never known weather like this around here and we made the most of it, refusing to stop until Thonon so we could enjoy the entire stretch with a warm engine and hot sticky tyres.
Deano will fully appreciate the appeal of the last stretch of the RDGA to thonon in 30+ degree heat and a dry, clear road. Biking nirvana.
We stopped in Geneva for photos by the fountain. Louby loved the place and failed to understand my dislike of it. I still rode with eyes in the back of my head and a potty mouth. We escaped unharmed.
Filled the tank with cheap fuel by the border then road through Gex towards Doucier in the Jura. The only way i could drag Louby away from Chamonix this morning was on the promise of water and a beach so she could soak up more sun.
I knew just the place, thanks to the Tigers. I could have a play on the amazing roads past Gex, we'd be the perfect distance for our homeward journey, and Louby could lay on a beach by lac du chalain.
We checked into the campsite and headed straight for the beach, calling into the shop for some cold beers and a big bag of crisps.
I had a swim while Loobs worshipped the evening sun, before we hit the showers and then the bar.
Got talking to a couple of teenage sisters from Devon. They were here with their parents, who later joined us and we chatted over a drink on the terrace before we headed to the restaurant. We'd missed the shop, which had long since closed and we were out of all but the most basic and unappealing emergency provisions.
It was too late for the full menu in the restaurant. After 9.30pm it's pizza only, and they were disappointing efforts. We washed them down with a carafe of rose, which made the pizzas and the loud and lairy British family on the next table, slightly more bearable.
Returned to the tent feeling bloated, full of overloaded but nondescript pizza. We were spoiled in St Moritz and i don't think any other pizza can ever compete. It's a shame. I don't eat a lot of pizza so when i do, I want it to be exceptional.
Woke during the night to the sound of rain on the tent. Quickly pulled on the nearest pair of pants (I think they were mine) then leapt out to save the towels on the washing line. It never came to anything and it was dry but a little overcast in the morning.
PS Sparky - get it right. They were yoga pants and flip flops.
181 miles
Thursday 3 July 2014
Day 13 - Lake Como to Chamonix
It rained all night. In fact it rained all morning, so we had to pack away under a nearby shelter and time our departure carefully.
Louby picked a few things up from the first shop we came across, including some very tasty custard croissants that we ate on a bench by the lake.
Rode along the top of lake piano and lake Lugano. There's one little bar (Bar Cima) with a terrace before the Swiss border, but the terrace was closed due to the weather so we cracked on. You don't really get a feel for lake lugano, as lovely as it is, because you only see it from an elevated position from the S34 during the few moments that you're not riding through tunnels.
Lake Maggiore on the other hand is a real gem. We stopped in cannobio and managed to carve a path down to the waterfront bars. We both immediately fell in love with the place. We admired it longingly over a cappuccino then headed to the Swiss border, via verbania.
We stopped at a tiny restaurant immediately before the border and enjoyed a small and very reasonable three course Italian feast that would set us up for the rest of day.
We crossed the border over the simplon pass and immediately hit a continuous stream of roadworks. I reckon they cost us about 45 minutes all in, but we eventually made it across Switzerland and thankfully into France.
We landed in Chamonix early evening, after stopping briefly at the coop garage outside martigny to pick up some provisions for a quick tea. While Louby enjoyed a shower, i was joined by one of our British neighbours with a couple of bottles of beer. A nice bloke called Andy. He had done his fair share of touring and fully understood the appreciation and relief when you land at a campsite after a day in the saddle and you're greeted by a stranger bearing cold beer. We chatted while i got the tent together. He's into his mountain bikes and motorbikes but this trip is purely a walking holiday with his wife. He said the forecast for tomorrow is promising. The end of tonights ride, while not particularly hot, was dry and clear which bodes well. The road down into Chamonix from the Swiss border is superb, unless it's raining, which thankfully it wasn't tonight.
Clear skies gave a complete unobstructed view of Mont Blanc. It also meant the temperature dropped, but it was bearable.
So today we've done four Italian lakes, then Switzerland, then back into Italy, then back into Switzerland, then finally France. A long day, some of which was wet and a bit of a slog, but it's had some great highlights and we're now safely on the homeward stretch.
220 miles
Louby picked a few things up from the first shop we came across, including some very tasty custard croissants that we ate on a bench by the lake.
Rode along the top of lake piano and lake Lugano. There's one little bar (Bar Cima) with a terrace before the Swiss border, but the terrace was closed due to the weather so we cracked on. You don't really get a feel for lake lugano, as lovely as it is, because you only see it from an elevated position from the S34 during the few moments that you're not riding through tunnels.
Lake Maggiore on the other hand is a real gem. We stopped in cannobio and managed to carve a path down to the waterfront bars. We both immediately fell in love with the place. We admired it longingly over a cappuccino then headed to the Swiss border, via verbania.
We stopped at a tiny restaurant immediately before the border and enjoyed a small and very reasonable three course Italian feast that would set us up for the rest of day.
We crossed the border over the simplon pass and immediately hit a continuous stream of roadworks. I reckon they cost us about 45 minutes all in, but we eventually made it across Switzerland and thankfully into France.
We landed in Chamonix early evening, after stopping briefly at the coop garage outside martigny to pick up some provisions for a quick tea. While Louby enjoyed a shower, i was joined by one of our British neighbours with a couple of bottles of beer. A nice bloke called Andy. He had done his fair share of touring and fully understood the appreciation and relief when you land at a campsite after a day in the saddle and you're greeted by a stranger bearing cold beer. We chatted while i got the tent together. He's into his mountain bikes and motorbikes but this trip is purely a walking holiday with his wife. He said the forecast for tomorrow is promising. The end of tonights ride, while not particularly hot, was dry and clear which bodes well. The road down into Chamonix from the Swiss border is superb, unless it's raining, which thankfully it wasn't tonight.
Clear skies gave a complete unobstructed view of Mont Blanc. It also meant the temperature dropped, but it was bearable.
So today we've done four Italian lakes, then Switzerland, then back into Italy, then back into Switzerland, then finally France. A long day, some of which was wet and a bit of a slog, but it's had some great highlights and we're now safely on the homeward stretch.
220 miles
Wednesday 2 July 2014
Day 12 - Lake Garda to Lake Como
Took a stroll along the lake to Malcesine this morning. Louby suggested an early morning walk before i 'started faffing about'. By the time I'd finished faffing about, our 7am start became a 9am start. It was a nice walk thought. Or as nice as a 14km round trip in flip flops can be.
Stopped for very nice coffee and croissants in Malcesine. We split one custard and one almond croissant. I couldn't choose between them - they were both delicious. We were joined by a little bird, obvious no stranger to eating crumbs from the hands of tourists.
Louby tried on a pretty little frock, but it wasn't really a Louby frock so she left it.
Walked back to the campsite, after struggling to find a bus stop or even see a damn bus. Turns out they run once an hour and we had missed our opportunity.
This made for a late start. By the time we'd packed up and stopped in Riva for one final icecream (Loobs was far more adventurous than me - i stuck with tried and trusted amareno), we finally hit the road about 2pm.
Retraced a previous route west, back over the tonale pass through edolo and aprica. The west side of the tonale pass is so good that it ended with Louby stating the obvious "you really enjoyed that road!". Yes i did.
Edolo looks lovely, but we didn't stop. We did however stop between edolo and aprica for a pretty horrific toasted panini. Ham, brie and oregano sounded perfect but it was cold and gristly and three times the price of the one we enjoyed yesterday. The coffee was good though.
We were joined by a Belgian couple. Nice enough, but we didn't have time to spare and he could talk for England. Or Belgium, i guess.
He has an apartment here so knows the roads and spent far too long pointing at our map trying to recommend a pass that I hadn't ridden yet. He failed.
He had a lot of things to say, one or two of which were actually interesting.
First, lots of events across europe are being cancelled or postponed due to the atrocious weather. A lot of italians are staying at home which is why the campsites are so empty.
Secondly, due to a massive increase in the number of bikes and bike accidents, police are clamping down on speeding in the dolomites. That explains the recent appearance of speed cameras in pretty much every town.
We finally managed to escape our very pleasant but very talkative Belgian friends and hoofed it over to lake Como. The usual campsite was deserted. In fact half of it was closed off.
We saw about three other couples the whole time we were there, but at least we had the run of the facilities.
Loobs knocked up a very tasty spetzl tea using some choice leftovers and we polished off a couple of bottles of red. The one we brought with us had been carefully packed next to the exhaust all day, in the left hand pannier, so was the perfect temperature. The one i picked up from the bar was too cold, but i got if for a fiver along with a huge bag of crisps so can't really complain.
We had a short walk by the lake, with glasses of wine obviously, to the marina and sat looking at boats and bothering some swans. The cygnets would come to eat out of your hand, then peck it when they realised you didn't have anything for them, then the parents would get all feisty. It was entertaining for a while but we didn't want any broken arms so we stopped playing and called it a day.
152 miles
Stopped for very nice coffee and croissants in Malcesine. We split one custard and one almond croissant. I couldn't choose between them - they were both delicious. We were joined by a little bird, obvious no stranger to eating crumbs from the hands of tourists.
Louby tried on a pretty little frock, but it wasn't really a Louby frock so she left it.
Walked back to the campsite, after struggling to find a bus stop or even see a damn bus. Turns out they run once an hour and we had missed our opportunity.
This made for a late start. By the time we'd packed up and stopped in Riva for one final icecream (Loobs was far more adventurous than me - i stuck with tried and trusted amareno), we finally hit the road about 2pm.
Retraced a previous route west, back over the tonale pass through edolo and aprica. The west side of the tonale pass is so good that it ended with Louby stating the obvious "you really enjoyed that road!". Yes i did.
Edolo looks lovely, but we didn't stop. We did however stop between edolo and aprica for a pretty horrific toasted panini. Ham, brie and oregano sounded perfect but it was cold and gristly and three times the price of the one we enjoyed yesterday. The coffee was good though.
We were joined by a Belgian couple. Nice enough, but we didn't have time to spare and he could talk for England. Or Belgium, i guess.
He has an apartment here so knows the roads and spent far too long pointing at our map trying to recommend a pass that I hadn't ridden yet. He failed.
He had a lot of things to say, one or two of which were actually interesting.
First, lots of events across europe are being cancelled or postponed due to the atrocious weather. A lot of italians are staying at home which is why the campsites are so empty.
Secondly, due to a massive increase in the number of bikes and bike accidents, police are clamping down on speeding in the dolomites. That explains the recent appearance of speed cameras in pretty much every town.
We finally managed to escape our very pleasant but very talkative Belgian friends and hoofed it over to lake Como. The usual campsite was deserted. In fact half of it was closed off.
We saw about three other couples the whole time we were there, but at least we had the run of the facilities.
Loobs knocked up a very tasty spetzl tea using some choice leftovers and we polished off a couple of bottles of red. The one we brought with us had been carefully packed next to the exhaust all day, in the left hand pannier, so was the perfect temperature. The one i picked up from the bar was too cold, but i got if for a fiver along with a huge bag of crisps so can't really complain.
We had a short walk by the lake, with glasses of wine obviously, to the marina and sat looking at boats and bothering some swans. The cygnets would come to eat out of your hand, then peck it when they realised you didn't have anything for them, then the parents would get all feisty. It was entertaining for a while but we didn't want any broken arms so we stopped playing and called it a day.
152 miles
Tuesday 1 July 2014
Day 11 - Dolomites to Lake Garda
Horrendous storms overnight. The tent faired better than the basha but it was soaked through, as were our towels and any other sundries left on our makeshift washing line.
Clear skies this morning but still cold. I walked to the coop in time for it opening at 8.15. The sign on the main street said 6 degrees, but it was a relatively toasty 8 degrees as i walked back half an hour later. The coop in Canazei is lovely. Just the right size to stock all you need. I crossed everything off our short list, including a couple of fresh chocolate croissants and a nice bottle of lagrein, then walked back to find Louby packing away our home. It's her job now. I cram everything into the panniers any way they'll fit. If the lids close, with me sat on them if necessary, then mission accomplished. Louby has a finely honed, methodical technique that works far better.
We showered and dried ourselves, as best we could with wet towels, then hit the road.
Quick loop around the dolomites before leaving. Clear skies and dry roads, but still cool. 6.5 degrees at top of the sella pass was as bad as it got. The temperature climbed to a lofty 18 degrees in the lower towns and villages.
We took in the sella, gardena, valparola, campolongo and finally looped back over the gardena. Louby finally got to see the dolomites in clear weather and i got to play on dry roads, so we could both leave happy.
Stopped at selva gardena for a hot drink and to layer up. I had a double espresso and loobs had a hot chocolate. Both were very welcome. The waitress was a chatty thing from malcesine. She told us that a lot of Brits get married in the castle overlooking the lake. No, we didn't.
Stopped just before bolzano to fill up the fuel bottle and top up the bike. The entire stretch from selva to bolzano (s242 and s12) is amazing. It follows the river along a narrow gorge. Loobs found some cheap and tasty paninis in the bar next to the garage so we sat outside with the map while we refueled. The plan was to head over the Stelvio pass towards Switzerland but we were both finding the heat of the lower ground quite appealing. I'd had my fun on the roads today and Louby has been a good girl, so we agreed to head back to lake Garda. We could either be over Stelvio into bormio or at the campsite on Garda for 4.30pm. Only one of those choices would guarantee us hot sunshine and allow us to dry our wet clothes and tent, so there was no objection from either party.
Satnav took us down the s45b. It didn't look the most direct, but it was if we wanted to avoid motorway so we stuck with it. A fine road and we shaved a good 10 minutes off our eta.
Stopped at lidl in torbole for essentials then checked in at the usual campsite. By 5.30pm we had the tent up, clean washing on the line and were enjoying a blazing evening sun, cold fizz, fresh strawberries and a paddle in shorts and a dainty little summer frock.
Louby turned in for a nap while i got busy on a bottle of red and a hot stove. We've both been craving gnocchi since my rather delicious meal that first night in Canazei. Unfortunately the coop in Canazei, despite earlier praise, had let me down and I'd bought gnocchi shaped pasta rather than the soft plump fresh gnocchi that we both craved. That's what happens when i go shopping in the early hours without my glasses. It was good, but left us wanting.
Quick cuddle on the beach before bed and a last glance over the lake at the twinkly lights on the opposite shore. We'll be back, although unlike this unplanned return visit, we'll probably have to leave it longer than 2 days next time.
158 miles
Clear skies this morning but still cold. I walked to the coop in time for it opening at 8.15. The sign on the main street said 6 degrees, but it was a relatively toasty 8 degrees as i walked back half an hour later. The coop in Canazei is lovely. Just the right size to stock all you need. I crossed everything off our short list, including a couple of fresh chocolate croissants and a nice bottle of lagrein, then walked back to find Louby packing away our home. It's her job now. I cram everything into the panniers any way they'll fit. If the lids close, with me sat on them if necessary, then mission accomplished. Louby has a finely honed, methodical technique that works far better.
We showered and dried ourselves, as best we could with wet towels, then hit the road.
Quick loop around the dolomites before leaving. Clear skies and dry roads, but still cool. 6.5 degrees at top of the sella pass was as bad as it got. The temperature climbed to a lofty 18 degrees in the lower towns and villages.
We took in the sella, gardena, valparola, campolongo and finally looped back over the gardena. Louby finally got to see the dolomites in clear weather and i got to play on dry roads, so we could both leave happy.
Stopped at selva gardena for a hot drink and to layer up. I had a double espresso and loobs had a hot chocolate. Both were very welcome. The waitress was a chatty thing from malcesine. She told us that a lot of Brits get married in the castle overlooking the lake. No, we didn't.
Stopped just before bolzano to fill up the fuel bottle and top up the bike. The entire stretch from selva to bolzano (s242 and s12) is amazing. It follows the river along a narrow gorge. Loobs found some cheap and tasty paninis in the bar next to the garage so we sat outside with the map while we refueled. The plan was to head over the Stelvio pass towards Switzerland but we were both finding the heat of the lower ground quite appealing. I'd had my fun on the roads today and Louby has been a good girl, so we agreed to head back to lake Garda. We could either be over Stelvio into bormio or at the campsite on Garda for 4.30pm. Only one of those choices would guarantee us hot sunshine and allow us to dry our wet clothes and tent, so there was no objection from either party.
Satnav took us down the s45b. It didn't look the most direct, but it was if we wanted to avoid motorway so we stuck with it. A fine road and we shaved a good 10 minutes off our eta.
Stopped at lidl in torbole for essentials then checked in at the usual campsite. By 5.30pm we had the tent up, clean washing on the line and were enjoying a blazing evening sun, cold fizz, fresh strawberries and a paddle in shorts and a dainty little summer frock.
Louby turned in for a nap while i got busy on a bottle of red and a hot stove. We've both been craving gnocchi since my rather delicious meal that first night in Canazei. Unfortunately the coop in Canazei, despite earlier praise, had let me down and I'd bought gnocchi shaped pasta rather than the soft plump fresh gnocchi that we both craved. That's what happens when i go shopping in the early hours without my glasses. It was good, but left us wanting.
Quick cuddle on the beach before bed and a last glance over the lake at the twinkly lights on the opposite shore. We'll be back, although unlike this unplanned return visit, we'll probably have to leave it longer than 2 days next time.
158 miles
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